I started using Tretinoin back in June/July, and here’s what I learned so far: my updated skincare routine and product recommendations for strengthening your skin barrier!
What is Tretinoin
Retinal, retinol and retinoic acid esters are all forms of retinoids. There’re all compounds derived from vitamin A. Retinol has to be converted to retinoic acid to work, and then has the same abilities as trans-retinoic acid (Tretinoin). Tretinoin is the prescription-only swiss-army knife of skincare, and that is actually (rare in skincare ingredients) approved by independent studies. It’s usually used for anti-acne and anti-aging purposes: the main deal about it is that Tretinoin works on a cellular level and makes skin cells behave in their normal, healthy ways. It also boosts collagen production, accelerates skin turnover and prevents keratinization. Retinol and retinal also do that to a degree. Side effects are the norm, though, although less than with Tretinoin.
Why
This summer, I kinda fell out of love with skincare. Sure, most of the time I was either super stressed, sick or depressed or anxious (or both), and all of these things don’t mix well with elaborate skincare routines for me. My routines shrank, and shrank, and shrank some more, until it was just cleansing, toner and sunscreen (or, cleansing, toner and moisturizer), and it was fine! My skin was fine.
While skincare used to be fun, I’ve been falling out with brands more and more, due to a combination of promises and pricing. More and more expensive products, with outrageous claims, that did – nothing. I had enough.
And then I started thinking. (Mistake?!) My reasoning went thus: with Tretinoin, I wouldn’t need a super extensive routine, because Tret does all, doesn’t it? I would, therefore, no longer need all the different treatments for my breakouts, hyperpigmentation, brightening, plumping, anti-aging or whatever.
I would save time and money and brain space and just use Tret. Nevermind I’ve never used Tret before. It seemed like a good idea at the time.
Oh god, the naivety.
Starting with Tretinoin: How to
In the beauty forum I am a member of, people always joke there’re only two times in the life of a beauty lover when starting with Tret makes sense: at the beginning, when you actually listen to other people, or after a few years when you’ve tried and done everything, and know your skin. I definitely fall into the latter group, and I was prepared.
I knew to (important!) start slowly (I used a less-than-pea-sized portion mixed into my moisturiser every five days), knew to actually use soothing and barrier-boosting products (important!), not to apply on damp skin and to apply over a ‘buffer’ – I knew all that AND was prepared to take it slowly.
What happened
After a few weeks, my skin started to burn whatever I applied. It wasn’t happy. I also started to break out on areas of my skin I’ve never broke out before (apparently, purging absolutely is a thing). When it didn’t break out, though, it looked good – really good.
And here’s my most important advice when starting with Tret:
Listen to your skin. ALWAYS listen to your skin, and be prepared that products don’t work anymore that used to work for me (all my wonderful light and watery serums and essences – yeah, nah. Not any more.).
My trouble shooting for outbreaks/burning: I reintroduced Azelaic Acid back into my routine, and used oils/squalene mixed into my moisturizer. Also, no more sunscreen with alcohol denat., but products with a lot of barrier strengthening and soothing ingredients like panthenol and ceramides.
My routine recs
- Ditch all the actives you’re using.
- If you’re a regular retinol/retinal user, start with Tret in the evening every five or four days. Do that for two months, then go for every three evenings, do that one or month, and so on.
- If you don’t like that approach, mix miniscule amounts or Tret into your moisturizer every evening.
- Try ‘sandwiching’ or ‘buffering’, i.e. applying Tret OVER moisturizer or even between two layers of moisturizer
- Do not ever apply Tret on damp skin.
- It’s possible that this changes completely when your skin is used to Tret.
- It’s also possible that your experience is completely different than mine.
My Products (in the order I use them)
Toners
Paula’s Choice Resist Toner. Barrier-repairing and soothing. Better than my simply hydrating ones.
Serums
PSA The Most Serum (I mix those two)
Moisturizer
Beyer & Söhne Hautcreme+ (for dry skin): I mix Tret into this.
Oils
Blue Lagoon Algae Bioactive Concentrate Face Oil
Squalene (either or)
Treatments
cosrx pimple patches + BPO (if needed)
Sunscreen
SPF without alcohol denat. or fragrance: my gentlest ones are probably Evy’s mousse or Skin Aqua
Starting with Tretinoin: What I learned
Tret is not a cosmetic or skincare product. It’s a drug, and as a drug, it has side effects. Nearly nobody I know introduced Tret into their routine without any problems. More common is that your skin problems become worse until they become better. It’s not a feel-good kind of product. Your skin doesn’t feel, nor look great when you applied it.
You need patience and to be willing to tolerate all side effects for maybe longer than you think. As such, Tret lacks all the features of beauty products: it’s not designed for ‘elegance’, or skin-feel, or short-term effects.
As you see, my plan to use a minimal skincare routine with Tret also didn’t work. At all. (Yet?) I even started to buy products I never needed before: heavy-duty moisturizers, for example, or oils. Barrier-strengthening products feature heavily in my routine, and a lot of them. More is better.
What now?
I’m changing my opinions on Tret about every other day – sometimes I look into the mirror and simply love how my skin looks: smooth, even, bright, and then, next morning, I wake up with four painful spots and want to throw my tube out of the window and never try it again. I now use Tret every other three or four nights a week, and nope, my skin isn’t having it right now. But, I persevere and will check in with you in December again.
Please note that this post is not sponsored in any way. We buy products ourselves, with our own money, and don’t accept exchanging goods or money for reviews. We are completely independent, and our reviews reflect that.
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