Is it the summer of garbage sunscreen?! It certainly looks like that from over here. Case in point: the following Isdin Fotoultra Redness SPF50 review.
The Brand
Isdin is a 45-year-old Spanish brand. Their cosmoceuticals are sold in pharmacies around the world (see on their site where). Sunscreen seems to be their biggest seller, and they have numerous lines. The Fusion Water line is the one I’ve seen mentioned the most. The Fotoultra range is for ‘skin types can be particularly sensitive to solar radiation and light’.
- More Isdin SPFs: body & (tinted) face
- Isdin’s nail hardener pen
Isdin Fotoultra Redness SPF50 review: Description
ISDIN FotoUltra Redness Facial Sunscreen SPF50 PA++++ 50ml protects from UV radiation and visible light, at the same time correcting and reducing redness as well as soothing the skin. Light and fast absorbing texture.
What it is
While it never says so, Isdin implies that this SPF is for people suffering from rosacea and similar skin issues. It’s a chemical sunscreen with some soothing ingredients that may be hard to find internationally. (Don’t worry about that.)
Ingredients
Aqua (Water), Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Niacinamide, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol [nano], C15-19 Alkane, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol, Polysorbate 60, Decyl Glucoside, Hydroxyacetophenone, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Sphingomonas Ferment Extract, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Citric Acid, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, Mica, Propylene Glycol, Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Tin Oxide, Tocopherol.
Isdin
Notable ingredients
Of course, there’s niacinamide in here (are manufacturers even allowed to skip niacinamide in any skincare product nowadays?!??!). And sure, it can help with building a stronger skin barrier. It’s also easy to use too much, because it’s basically in everything nowadays.
It’s always nice to see antioxidants in a sunscreen (Tocopheryl Acetate, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Tocopherol), and some interesting soothing ingredients as well. Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, a more cosmetically derivative of Azelaic Acid, is one of them, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol (trade name SymSitive) is the other. It’s supposed to ‘instantly decrease stinging and burning sensations’. (Incidecoder)
Filters
| Sunscreen Filter | Type | Spectrum | Remarks |
| Octisalate / Ethylhexyl Salicylate / Octyl Salicylate | chemical / organic | UVB (280-320 nm) with peak at 306 nm | not a strong filter, used with other filters to solubilize. |
| Ethylhexyl Triazone / Uvinul T 150 | chemical / organic | photostable UVB filter | oil soluble, odorless & colorless powder, available everywhere except the US & Canada |
| Tinosorb S / Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine | chemical / organic | broad-spectrum (UVA & UVB, 280-400 nm, peak at 310-345 nm) | very photostable, available everywhere but the US |
| Uvinul A Plus / Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate | chemical / organic | high UVA protection (320-400 nm) with peak protection at 354nm | high photostability, can be used up to 10%, available everywhere but the US & Canada |
| Tinosorb M / Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol / Bisoctrizole (nano) | chemical / organic | broad-spectrum (UVA & UVB, 280-400 nm, peak at 305 nm & 360 nm) | highly photostable, not available in the US, can help stabilize other filters (eg Octinoxate) |
I had a very annoying email correspondence with Isdin’s customer service who refused to give me the exact PPD. Which is absolutely in their right (even if I don’t approve), but with an absolute bogus reason: because the numbers aren’t standardised. (Insert sideeye here.)
Sustainability
They have a few programs centered around plastic removal and seagrass reforestation in the Mediterranean, and concentrating on eco-friendly packaging. (Isdin)
Application
The Fotoultra Redness SPF has a rather liquid formula. Not as liquid as Vichy’s (that I reviewed recently), but liquid. It reminded me a lot of my discontinued HG Isdin Fusion Water Pediatrics that my heart gave a little skip and I dared to hope that maybe, mayyyyybeee?
It also applies like my old love – it glides over skin very pleasantly and effortlessly, but – white. Very white. (That kinda dissipates.)
I just used the Eucerin Hyaluron Face Mist under this one. Temperatures were in the mid-20s when I tested this one.
Finish
And then it goes all to hell, obviously. Like Paula’s Choice’s new sunscreen, this forms a thin, oily, super glowy film on my skin. That is the opposite of their claim ‘fluid textures that melt into the skin and absorb quickly’. This is not only a finish that I find deeply unpleasant to wear, it also ever makes me doubt the solidity of the SPF’s protective film that is thin, glides around and is easily disturbed. No matter what, it never sinks in properly.
They also advertise ‘neutralizing pigments’. That’ll be the mica and some tin oxide and titanium dioxide at the bottom of the ingredient list, which does neutralize exactly zero, but will give darker skintones a white cast.
Makeup Application
With Paula’s Choice’s Shine Stopper I’m able to achieve a nice not-too-glowy-not-too-matte foundation finish over the Fotoultra Redness. Paramount is getting rid of that oily film first – either through blotting (which might compromise protection), or applying a mattifying primer. I also need lots of powder during the day, otherwise it transforms into a shiny, oily mess.
Comparison
Like I said above, this one bears a close similarity with Paula’s Choice Advanced Sun Protection Daily Moisturiser SPF50 PA++++. Both Vichy and the LRP UVMune are similarly liquid in texture, but DO sink in (although both aren’t as traceless as I’d wish). I can’t honestly see any redeeming features: the UVA (presumably) isn’t great, the performance and finish are abysmal, it has a potential white cast, sensitizes my eyes, isn’t great for hot and/or humid weather AND doesn’t do anything against redness of my reactive skin.
Isdin Fotoultra Redness SPF50 review: Checklist
Isdin Fotoultra Redness SPF50 review: Rating
Isdin has published some amazing results of their own study with 30 people over 28 days: 94% claim it calms their skin, 92% say it reduces itchiness and burning immediately, while 82% claim it reduces redness immediately.
Now, I don’t have rosacea, nor does my skin burn or itch routinely. I do, though, have rather reactive skin that turns red in the heat immediately, and you know what? After three weeks, I am still to see any effect of this. If anything, the oily film on my skin makes my redness worse. It also tends to irritate my eyes AND stings slightly upon application.
What also figures into the rating is the 30€ price tag and the annoying to and fro with CS over the PPD, but mainly this doesn’t fulfil any claims made.
Availability & Price
In the US, Care to Beauty carries Euro sunscreens. In Europe, have a look at Isdin’s homepage. I checked some online pharmacy to find the best deal in Germany, and bought the 50ml bottle for around 25€ at Medpex.
Please note that this post is not a sponsored post. We buy the products ourselves, with our own money, and don’t accept exchanging goods or money for reviews. We are completely independent, and our reviews reflect that.
3 Comments