Paula’s Choice released a sunscreen with modern, non-FDA-approved filters! Throw the confetti, start the music and dance! … Oh, wait. I’m here to rain seriously on your (and their) parade with my Paula’s Choice Advanced Sun Protection review! Woohooo!
The Brand
PC, the forerunner of science-based skincare, now owned by Unilever and nowadays rather famous for weird launches (a pink exfoliator with glitter?!), unfortunate claims (smoothes lines in 20 minutes!) and ramming down their hero product of 20 years down everybody’s throat on social media (oh 2% BHA, bane of my life). It’s a tough world in an overcrowded market.
Now, a new sunscreen. Give it to PC, they’ve been doing really well with their old sunscreens. Both SPFs from their Resist line had their place on my skincare shelf for a long time, and although their Youth-Extending SPF rated rather badly in my recent review, that’s mostly due to the fact that nowadays there’re so many other good options that exceed in UVA protection and skin feel. Let me say I was INCREDIBLY excited to see a new SPF with new filters and thus, better UVA protection from the brand. The downside of that, of course, is that it isn’t available in the USA. Sorry folks. Buuuuut.. well, you’ll see.
Description
An innovative blend of five UV filters for ultimate shielding against damaging UVA & UVB rays to prevent wrinkles, loss of firmness and discolouration – all with zero white cast. (…)
Paula’s Choice
The formula has a comfortable, sheer finish with zero white cast, containing emollients for a glowy, dewy and hydrated application that feels closer to a moisturiser than a sun cream.
For normal and dry skin.
(Can we abandon the term ‘normal’ in skincare and makeup, please?!)
Also, worth mentioning is that I did that little test on PC’s website where you can see if a product is suitable for your skin, and, reassuringly, it claimed that yes, this sunscreen was suitable for my combination skin. Whew!
Paula’s Choice Advanced Sun Protection review: What it is
Immediately I’m a bit wary when looking at the description: the ‘innovative’ ‘blend’ of filters (huh?) like we’re talking about a new coffee, and the ‘glowy, dewy and hydrated’ thing that usually makes me want to run for the hills. I want a satin, non-tacky finish in my sunscreens, and I guess – this is not it.
Ingredients
Aqua (Solvent), Dibutyl Adipate (Skin Conditioning Agent), Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Sunscreen Agent), Propylheptyl Caprylate (Skin Conditioning Agent), Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Emolient), Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Sunscreen Agent), Ethylhexyl Triazone (Sunscreen Agent), Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (nano) (Sunscreen Agent), Undecane (Skin Conditioning Agent), Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Sunscreen Agent), Glycerin (Skin Protectant), Isononyl Isononanoate (Emolient), Propanediol (Solvent), Tridecane (Skin Conditioning Agent), Potassium Cetyl Phosphate (Emulsifier), Saccharomyces Ferment (Skin Conditioning Agent), Sodium Polyacrylate (Emulsion Stabilizer), Decyl Glucoside (Cleansing Agent), Caprylyl Glyceryl Ether (Surfactant), Sodium Phytate (Chelating Agent), Caprylhydroxyamic Acid (Chelating Agent), Lauroyl Lysine (Skin Conditioning Agent), Propylenen Glycol (Humectant), Xantham Gum (Miscellaneous skin conditioning agent), Tocopherol (Antioxidant), Naringenin (Skin Conditoning Agent), Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (Solvent)
Paula’s Choice
A bit sneaky: the advertised ‘antioxidants’. It’s THREE. (Tocopherol, Naringenin and, if you want to count it, Saccharomyces Ferment). What else? Emollients. So. Many. Emollients. SO MANY. Starting with Glycerin, Propanediol (etc.etc.) and ending with sunflower oil for good measure. (*eyeroll*)
Paula’s Choice Advanced Sun Protection review: Filters
| Sunscreen Filter | Type | Spectrum | Remarks |
| Uvinul A Plus / Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate | chemical / organic | high UVA protection (320-400 nm) with peak protection at 354nm | high photostability, can be used up to 10%, available everywhere but the US & Canada |
| Octisalate / Ethylhexyl Salicylate / Octyl Salicylate | chemical / organic | UVB (280-320 nm) with peak at 306 nm | not a strong filter, used with other filters to solubilize. |
| Ethylhexyl Triazone / Uvinul T 150 | chemical / organic | photostable UVB filter | oil soluble, odorless & colorless powder, available everywhere except the US & Canada |
| Tinosorb M / Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol / Bisoctrizole | chemical / organic | broad-spectrum (UVA & UVB, 280-400 nm, peak at 305 nm & 360 nm) | highly photostable, not available in the US, can help stabilize other filters (eg Octinoxate) |
| Tinosorb S / Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine | chemical / organic | broad-spectrum (UVA & UVB, 280-400 nm, peak at 310-345 nm) | very photostable, available everywhere but the US |
I really don’t see the ‘innovative blend’ – these are bog-standard filters that I see nearly every time I compile a sunscreen review (in my last two sunscreen reviews, for example: Acnemy and Skin1004). Innovative for PC? Yes, certainly.
UVA protection: PC claims that it’s ‘very high’. Its PPD is 24,3 per PC’s IG.
Sustainability
(We are) reducing our contribution to the climate crisis through materials sourcing, product development & shipping. Our end goal? Net zero emissions by 2030.
Paula’s Choice
For that, they try to reduce packaging, offset carbon emissions, audit gas emissions and reduce air shipments. (I guess that all came with Unilever’s takeover.)
Application
The sunscreen comes in a tube, and I found the ‘two-finger-method’ a bit hit-or-miss with it. Your amount of sunscreen will differ dramatically how much you squeeze the tube.
This is a thick lotion, which feels lighter when you start to spread it over your face with that melting feeling you know. It takes about two minutes for me to properly apply it and go over streaks and whatnot – and take note, if you think a slapdash method is ok, it’s really not. You’ll be rewarded with white streaks in your eyebrows etc.
When my skin is sensitive because I overdid it with retinol, it stings.
My base for this one is very minimal: a toner and a Vitamin C booster.
Finish
When you feel like it’s properly applied, my main problem arises: the wet-oily layer on my face that gives the photo-worthy glow all over PC’s IG, and is a nightmare in real life. It’s the exact feeling of a sunscreen oil. I tried it once and was immediately ready to wash it off, because it felt so awful.
Let me explain: the wet layer slides around on your skin the whole time. This makes me not only doubt that it forms a proper film on my skin that, you know, protects me from the sun, but is also a bother because everything sticks to it. Hair, fluff, small insects – you get the picture. It also makes my glasses slide around and transfers to every mask (I still wear them on public transport), scarf and collar. It is absolutely not suitable for every day, just-going-along-with-my-day use.
You can make it wearable, though. You either blot (which will likely make the sunscreen layer less protective) and powder, or use PC’s Shine Stopper and powder. I blotted the first time, and yes, it yielded a lovely soft-focus finish. I then (and have been ever since) used the Shine Stopper, which works well. Still I needed powder even with the Shine Stopper, though, because on its own, it’s not enough to stop the oils from spreading into my eyes and making them burn.
Makeup Application
I honestly don’t know how anybody can just apply any kind of foundation over this without setting the SPF in any kind first. If you did, it works very well, although the whole process is rather time consuming. I let the sunscreen set on its own for about 15 minutes, then use the Shine Stopper, then let that settle, then do my makeup. Not everyone does have that time.
Anyways, it’s a very nice makeup base, that feels nearly weightless, even with the Shine Stopper applied over it. Thus, it works very well under all kinds of liquid foundations, powder foundations, and BB creams.
Comparison
The nearest thing I can compare it with are actually real sunscreen oils (coincidentally, PC will launch one of those, too). Whenever I tried Beyer’s or Highdroxy’s, that the exact finish that never sets and never sinks in for me. It’s not in any way similar to the Youth-Extending Daily Hydrating Fluid that was a staple for me for many years.
The filters are in no way or form innovative – they’re the one nearly all Asian or European brands use, no matter drugstore or high-end.
Checklist
Rating
Paula’s Choice Advanced Sun Protection review: Conclusion
First, let me say that people with (a lot) drier skin than mine might enjoy this more. But, my skintype being as it is, and my life’s realities what they are – this is only borderline wearable for me, and with a lot of tweaks along the way. On its own, it’s unwearable, period. Due to its finish, it also migrates into my eyes over the day and stings. When not diligently applied, white streaks appear on my face. It settles into the fine lines on my neck and throat.
Also, it’s incredibly expensive.
This is not a sunscreen I enjoy wearing AT ALL. I’m also incredibly annoyed about the claims that are borderline misleading and bogus (innovative UV filter blend?!?!?!??!? And, look at this: ‘sophisticated sun protection that’s less likely to provoke a sensitised response due to the integrated filters’ larger molecular size, ensuring they stay on the skin’s surface rather than seeping into the pores’ – what?!). PC should know better, and claim that combo skin can wear this? COME ON.
Availability & Price
For 60ml, it’s 44€. Try the sample size with 15ml (like I did!) to see if you’d like texture and finish. Also available at Niche Beauty and Purish.
Please note that this post is not sponsored in any way. We buy products ourselves, with our own money, and don’t accept exchanging goods or money for reviews. We are completely independent, and our reviews reflect that.
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