Here’s what happened after I started to use AoS’ Tranexamic & Arbutin Brightening Serum at the beginning of the year. Read on in my Allies of Skin Brightening Serum review!
I bought the serum with last year’s Black Friday offer, and started to use it after I had finished AoS’ Vitamin C serum, which I absolutely loved. (I don’t introduce more than one new product into my routine at the same time, ever.)
Picture my surprise when the product vanished without a trace from their European site a few weeks ago. Apparently (this was revealed in an IG live), there’re so many problems with arbutin supplies that the brand decided to concentrate on its US market and remove it from other locations. It’s supposed to return in 2024.
The Brand
Allies of Skin was founded 2019 by Nicolas Travis in Singapore. 2020 he launched a more affordable sister brand called PSA.
- More: Allies of Skin: Peptides Moisturizer review
- More: Molecular Saviour Probiotics Treatment Mist
- And even more: 20% Vitamin C Serum
- And: the eye cream
AoS is a high-priced brand that prides itself on using highly concentrated, clinically proven ingredients. Its products are packed with actives – think Paula’s Choice on steroids.
Allies of Skin Brightening Serum review: What it is
The Brightening Serum promises to ‘optically improve and prevent the appearance of discoloration’. It also promises to strengthen skin and give it ‘a luminous finish’. Skin is supposed to be looking brighter and more even. (Please note that they don’t claim to target hyperpigmentation. Their claim is the ever elusive ‘brightening’.) I find it very interesting to see the claim that it ‘reduces age spots’, and ‘fades appearance of dark spots, strengthens & restores skin’ without exfoliation.
Hyperpigmentation & Arbutin
Hyperpigmentation is my white whale when it comes to skincare. I’ve been trying out numerous products with numerous ingredients touted to fight hyperpigmentation. For my skin, I do know that a combo of retinol and vitamin C works best, but I just can’t leave it alone: when a new promising product is released, it works like catnip for my brain: I simply have to try it.
I’ve written about a routine that works very well for my skin here, and also covered the process of hyperpigmentation there. If you want to know why hyperpigmentation happens and what you can do to prevent it, that’s your post.
There’re different ingredients targeting the many steps that happen when your skin develops an annoying brown spot. Arbutin belongs to the same ingredient group as hydroquinone, azelaic acid, kojic acid, tranexamic acid, Thiamidol and vitamin C. All of those are tyrosinase inhibitors to prevent melanin from forming. I haven’t been wowed with arbutin and tranexamic acid before. I couldn’t see any difference to my skin using those ingredients.
Description
“Brighter, radiant, strengthened skin.
This daily serum is designed for superior brightening, without exfoliation. Supercharged with clinically proven 5% Mushroom Complex, 5% Niacinamide, 3% Tranexamic Acid, 2% Alpha Arbutin, and 6 Brighteners & Peptides, this formulation gives your complexion a lit-from-within look, while strengthening each layer for healthier skin from the inside-out.”
Ingredients
Aqua (Water), Niacinamide, Lactobacillus/Ganoderma Lucidum (Reishi Mushroom) Extract/Lentinus Edodes (Shiitake Mushroom) Extract Ferment Filtrate, C13-15 Alkane, Tranexamic Acid, Glycerin, Alpha-Arbutin, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Pancratium Maritimum Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Hydrolyzed Pea, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Bisabolol, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Glucose, Pentapeptide-34 Trifluoroacetate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, C14-22 Alcohols, Xanthan Gum, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Propanediol, Sorbitan Caprylate, Carbomer, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Succinate, Sodium Chloride, Sorbic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol.
Allies of Skin
Notable brightening ingredients are (of course) niacinamide, a mushroom complex, tranexamic acid, arbutin and licorice root extract. AoS claims that ‘Supercharged with an adaptogenic star ingredient, our clinically proven 5% Mushroom Complex is a blend of Reishi and Shiitake Mushrooms, a combination that gives your skin a luminous brilliance from within, and simultaneously strengthens your skin in the long-term.’ – but nearly everybody can slap a ‘clinically proven’ claim on their product and it’ll tell you only that it was tested in a clinical environment.
Application
Ugh, mushrooms. I use two pumps (if I’d use the recommended three, I’d be drenched in product) every morning after cleansing and toning, and before sunscreen (always the best product to prevent hyperpigmentation). The brownish serum smells strongly of earthy mushrooms, which I’m not a fan of in my skincare.
It’s pleasant to apply: it’s not too liquid, feels silky, and sinks in quickly. It leaves my skin feeling pleasantly moisturised.
Effect
And here’s where all goes to pieces, because – while I didn’t have any reactions to it – it did NOTHING for me, nor my skin. Not on older hyperpigmentation, not on fresher marks, nor in overall brightness or luminosity. In fact, since finishing my Allies Vitamin C serum and starting with this one, I actually think my skin looks worse.
Unsurprisingly, I have notes. I can’t say I’m surprised at this outcome, because I looked at the brand’s own before-and-after pics and wasn’t convinced. Even in pictures that are supposed to show the product’s abilities in the most generous light, differences are minuscule to my eyes. (And mayyyyybe explained by natural healing processes.)
I actually don’t know what else to say – I mean it’s pretty damning when the best thing you can say about a 100€ serum is that it did nothing bad?!
Comparable products
I’ve only ever used another product with Arbutin before, and that’s Good Molecules toner, that I also didn’t like very much. The best trio combatting hyperpigmentation is still a combo of Vitamin C, Retinol and Niacinamide for me. If you want to try a similar product with tranexamic acid, but cheaper, have a look at Paula’s Choice.
Allies of Skin Brightening Serum review: Worth it?
HELL NO. This might be the luxury product that annoyed me the most, ever, when it comes to the cost-effect ratio.
Price & Availability
At the moment, it’s only available at AoS’ US and Singaporean stores. If you’re in the EU, though – don’t have fomo about it. I think it’s an easy skip. 1 fl/oz is $101.
Please note that this post is not sponsored in any way. We buy products ourselves, with our own money, and don’t accept exchanging goods or money for reviews. We are completely independent, and our reviews reflect that.
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