I trialled another super-expensive, super-hyped Allies of Skin products: The 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum. Read my Allies of Skin Vitamin C review to see how I got on with it and if I would buy it again!
Brand Description
Allies of Skin was founded 2019 by Nicolas Travis in Singapore. 2020 he launched a more affordable sister brand called PSA.
AoS is a high-priced brand that prides itself on using highly concentrated, clinically proven ingredients. Its products are packed with actives – think Paula’s Choice on steroids.
Allies of Skin Vitamin C serum review: What is it?
“This next-generation, waterless-base serum is supercharged with 20% Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid, 2% Orange Extract Complex, 0.05% Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Glutathione, and 3 Antioxidants to intensely brighten, firm and provide antioxidant protection for all skin types.”
Allies of Skin
I usually go for serums with pure Ascorbic Acid in them. Those are mostly water-based and oxidise very, very quickly. This serum from AoS is different: first, it has a waterless formula, and then it uses a Vitamin C derivative. This has positive and negative results: it won’t spoil quickly, it won’t be as potentially sensitizing as pure Vitamin C, but then, the texture will be dramatically different to a water-based serum – and, then, we deal with a derivative.
- More: Vitamin C 101
What is Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (EAC)?
Chemically, EAC is an “etherified derivative of ascorbic acid”.
Studies done by the manufacturers look very, very promising:
“(They are) saying that EAC is metabolized in the skin into pure ascorbic acid (and the ascorbic acid content of EAC is very high – 86,4% – compared to the usual 50-60% Vitamin C content of other derivatives).”
(Incidecoder)
Again, manufacturers’ studies claim that the benefits of EAC are similar to pure L-Ascorbic Acid in that they work as antioxidants, boost collagen production, and also brighten and even out the skin. (Incidecoder)
Ingredients
Propanediol, Glycerin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Polyglyceryl-10 Tristearate, Ethoxydiglycol, Dicaprylyl Ether, Aqua (Water), Caprylyl Glycol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Callus Culture Extract, Glutathione, Acetyl Cysteine, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Ergothioneine, Tocopherol, Gluconolactone, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Xanthan Gum, Silica, Sodium Benzoate, Calcium Gluconate, Phenoxyethanol
Formula
Have you ever iced a cake and used an icing sugar and water mix? Yes? The serum’s consistency is like icing. Icing that smells like jasmine to my nose, but there you are. She. Is. Thicc.
Not really surprising for a product that names propanediol and glycerin as its ingredient’s base.
Notable ingredients are (besides EAC) Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, an antioxidant similar to Vitamin E, but super potent. (And, of course, we love potent antioxidants to fight free radicals.) Vitamin C and Vitamin E is usually a beloved combo a lot of manufacturers use, because both work extremely well together.
If you’ve ever seen a Live with Nicholas Travis, AoS’ founder, you’ll have heard about the “diamond powder” used in here. That’s actually called Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane. High-end brands also like to use this one in foundations, primers and powders (it’s in Pat McGrath’s foundation, Becca primers and Hourglass Ambient Lighting powders, for example). I wouldn’t give too much weight to that – it could be mica for all I care. And, of course, it’s debatable why it’s in a functional skincare product.
I don’t really have an opinion on the orange extract – it serves as an additional antioxidant, I guess. And is maybe an inspiration for the orange packaging?!
Usage
When Aos says to use it on damp skin – they’re not kidding! Damp, imo, doesn’t cut it, though: I use my regular toner and a face mist to wet my skin, and then apply one and a half pump of the serum. Working it quickly into the skin, I can feel it “melting” under my fingertips. The texture, on my skin, prevents an extensive routine. I just use sunscreen over it.
But: your skin will feel slightly sticky, and that will be acerbated when applying foundation over it. You need longish waiting periods for the serum to absorb as best as it can, then use a light SPF, let that absorb, etc. For that reason, I prefer to use the serum when I don’t plan to wear makeup.
Effect
Remember the preposterous “diamond powder” claim I mentioned earlier? You know what that does? It’ll give your skin an absolutely amazing glow. Not that oil-slick, Vaseline-like glow I can’t stand, but a luminous sheen I absolutely and utterly love. My skin looks amazing when I use the serum. In that capacity, we have the world’s best primer here. (Although it doesn’t wear that great under foundation, so.)
I’ve never, ever experienced an increased sensitivity when using the Brighten + Firm Serum. But then, my skin likes Vitamin C a lot, and I can get away with its pure form easily.
But then, that’s only half of the story. That glow only lasts until I wash it off, after all. AoS promises to “brighten and firm”, and after about 6 – 8 weeks of continuous use, I’m rather iffy on the “firming”. Yeah, no. Sorry.
The “brightening” claim is a different beast. It doesn’t brighten any persisting, stubborn spots of hyperpigmentation and old acne marks. But: I had two brownish spots of discoloration that looked eerily like age spots on my temple, and those have been lightened visibly. So much so that sometimes I look into a mirror and have to search for them.
Comparison
I usually get a sense of brightening and increased evenness in tone when I use Vitamin C serums. Normally, I don’t see big differences in lightening of discoloration as I had with this one. Serums I’ve used and liked are also water-based and don’t use a Vitamin C derivative. Those are, for example, Beyer’s Vitamin C Serum and the one from Timeless.
One similar product I haven’t tried is Niod’s 30% Ethylated Ascorbic Acid Network.
Allies of Skin Vitamin C review: Worth it?
The texture absolutely speaks against this, in my opinion. I don’t even want to try this one in Summer – a formula this sticky is honestly nightmare material. It caters very much to the glowy-skin-clean-girl look, which is usually not the one I’m going for. Also, I don’t want to be human fly paper.
Ttbt, the price is also a big deterrent. I bought this bottle during AoS’ Black Friday deal of “Buy one get one free”, which brings the price down to a price point comparable to Paula’s Choice.
I love how my skin looks when I use this, I like the effect – but I won’t repurchase this one until BF for sure. During the warmer months, I’m looking for something less sticky.
One last note: it’s an AoS product that doesn’t come with packaging problems. Yay.
Availability & Price
Allies of Skin is available at their own web store and ship from the Netherlands when you’re located in Europe. (Also at Niche-Beauty, Beautylish, Asos, Zalando and Boots.) 30ml/1 fl.oz. are $98/106€.
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