Ugh, hyperpigmentation. I’m waging a lengthy battle against it, and my newest weapon is Paula’s Choice’s Discoloration Repair Serum. Well, does it repair discoloration? Let’s find out in my Paula’s Choice Discoloration Serum review.
The Brand
I mean, I don’t need to explain PC, right?! The OG science-driven brand? Right?! Right.
- Here’re my top five PC products from way back. Still valid.
Paula’s Choice Discoloration Serum review: What is it?
A potent serum that targets brown + gray patches while helping prevent new discoloration from forming using a tranexamic complex with bakuchiol and niacinamide.
Paula’s Choice
Visibly reduces patches of discoloration that can appear on the cheeks, forehead, nose & chin
Helps to control & fade dark spots
Evens patchy skin tone & brightens
Hyperpigmentation
Hyperpigmentation is the one skin condition I continuously battle with. Sure, I get the occasional breakout, and yes, I have more and more elasticity (ahem) issues. But hyperpigmentation bugs me the most. Therefore, it’s something I tried to combat with various products and ingredients. Retinol and Vitamin C still work best for me, when I use them regularly, but I’ve also tried tranexamic acid, arbutin, and thiamidol.
All work differently, though. Here’s a quick refresher:
“Those brown spots are melanin that’s build up by melanocytes in deeper skin layers. To start melanin production, they need tyrosinase. (That’s where Thiamidol comes in.)
Quoting myself here – What happened to Eucerin’s Anti-Pigment Spot Corrector
For example, if you use hydroquinone for your hyperpigmentation, it will regulate melanocyte production.
L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) and retinol will inhibit tyrosinase as well, while niacinamide will block the melanin that’s transported to the cell.”
What is tranexamic acid?
Tranexamic acid is different to those ingredients mentioned above, because it may tackle hyperpigmentation in various ways: it interferes with melanocyte production, it could slow down melanin production, and also reduce inflammatory processes that happen with UV exposure.
The most studies done with tranexamic acid show results when taking it orally. For topical application, Michelle from Labmuffin says:
“Since tranexamic acid acts on blood vessels as well as pigment to fade melasma (this could partly explain its greater effectiveness compared to ingredients that solely act on pigment), it could potentially help fade redness.”
What is tranexamic acid?
For people like me who suffer from red marks (fading acne spots) as well as sun damage, that could be a great option.
PC claims that the Discoloration Serum targets dark spots (melasma?), sun spots and post-acne marks, which is a bold claim, because all these have not only different causes, but also need different treatments. Common skincare knowledge says that treatments for brown spots won’t help with post-acne reddish marks.
Ingredients
PC uses tranexamic acid, niacinamide and bakuchiol to fight hyperpigmentation (and, of course, in true PC fashion, adds antioxidants and humectants).
The sweet spot for the combo of tranexamic acid and niacinamide seems to be a 3% and 5% and more respectively, and PC does exactly that.
They also include 0,5% Bakuchiol. I’m a hardcore retinol user, but studies seem to show that both ingredients act similarly:
“(…) a 2018 double-blind study with 44 people compared 0.5% Bakuchiol with 0.5% retinol cream and found that “bakuchiol is comparable to retinol in its ability to improve photoaging and is better tolerated than retinol”.”
Incidecoder
Application
I use the Discoloration Serum in my AM routine, after a hydrating toner (this one) and under sunscreen. I use two pumps – the serum is slightly milky with a non-sticky, silky finish. PC says to start to use it three times a week and then slowly increase the frequency up to twice (!) each day.
Finish
While at first I thought this might be a nice replacement for my beloved discontinued PC CBD Milk, it’s not. And that’s not only due to the very different ingredients (the CBD Milk was supposed to soothe and hydrate only), but due to the finish. I need something light and uncomplicated to use under sunscreen. Sunscreen is the main star in my morning routine, and I do cater everything to SPF, meaning whatever products I use, they have to work well with a generous SPF application. And the PC Discoloration Serum is – iffy. It tends to pill when I use it with certain sunscreens (or even with moisturizers I use in the PM routine). And while there’s nothing wrong with its texture, I still like the milky, light moisturizing formula of the CBD Milk more.
Effect
PC gives you the benchmark of 8 weeks after which you should see your skin change visibly. I admit I’ve only used it every day for about four weeks, while I used it intermittently for another four (maybe twice or three times a week). And I haven’t seen one single thing.
Paula’s Choice Discoloration Serum review: Worth it?
When dealing with hyperpigmentation, I have a multifaceted approach: I think it’s a good idea to use more than one ingredient to combat it. My skin reacts well to Vitamin C and retinol in quite high doses. If yours deosn’t, the Discoloration Serum might be worth a try.
I do also use 10% Niacinamide in my routine, which is also present in the Discoloration Serum. Technically, I’d need only one product with Niacinamide, and I don’t really like neither texture nor finish of the Discoloration Serum.
I do think it’s better formulated than Good Molecules Discoloration Correcting Serum (review). But given the fact that I use both Niacinamide and retinol in my routine anyways, I doubt that the tranexamic acid is doing it for me. This, in my opinion, only makes sense if you don’t use another Niacinamide and retinol/bakuchiol product in your routine. Then, it also justifies the steep price.
Also, when it comes to hyperpigmentation, a sunscreen you really like to wear is half the battle. Don’t skimp on it – it’s much easier to prevent hyperpigmentation than fighting it.
Availability & Price
At Paula’s Choice’s website, 30ml/1 oz. is $52.00/ 52,00€ (US site/ German site). Do use their regular discounts (subscribe to their newsletter) if you want to try it.
Please note that this review is not sponsored in any way. We buy products ourselves, with our own money, and don’t accept exchanging goods, or money, for reviews. We are completely independent, and our reviews reflect that.
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