Spoiler: It’s everywhere, and you’re likely having it in your skincare routine already. Learn more about it in the new edition of Skincare basics: Niacinamide.
I’ll likely sound like a broken record, BUT: there’s niacinamide in nearly anything already, your skin doesn’t need much AND you don’t want to spend money needlessly, right? Here, I’ll tell you how not to and how to add niacinamide to your skincare routine so it makes sense for you and your skin.
Niacinamide or Nicotinamide is a form of vitamin B3. It’s a water-soluble vitamin that’s also found in certain foods.
This form of Vitamin B3 is the swiss army knife of skincare, because it does it all. Anti-aging properties? Check. Acne-fighting? Check. Antioxidant? Check. Brightening? Check.
How does it work
Niacinamide stimulates ceramide production (ceramides are generally called ‘the cement between the building blocks of our skin’ – they’re lipids that protect from transepidermal water loss) and inhabit inflammatory processes. It also helps to regulate sebaceous glands that produce oil, and helps to build keratin, a protein that keeps skin firm. When it comes to hyperpigmentation, it works as an tyronase inhibitor.
Look at this infographic by Stratia, cheekily captured with ‘This is why Niacinamide is in absolutely everything’.
How to use niacinamide
Niacinamide is apparently an uncomplicated skincare ingredient, because it gets added to all kinds of products. It’s in toners and moisturisers, serums and masks. For formulators it’s uncomplicated, because it plays well with other actives, too. It’s also rather well researched: studies show that concentrations of 2.5% help against breakouts, and concentrations of 4-5% help with hyperpigmentation. At that level it’s as effective as hydroquinone without the side effects.
According to Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Practice, it “can be used at high doses topically (at least up to 5%) and is generally well tolerated.”
The Skincareedit
Please note that ‘high doses’ are already considered around 5%. And yes, higher concentration CAN lead to irritation.
No, you don’t need a niacinamide booster!
Look at the array of random products I took from my skincare cabinet on the pics in this post: I usually, depending on the time of day and my mood, use those in various combinations We have: Toners, eye patches, serum, moisturiser, sunscreen and a face mist. We also have products wildly ranging in price, from Western and Asian brands, indie brands and established ones. What they all have in common is – you guessed it, niacinamide.
So please check the labels of your skincare products! I wouldn’t use more than two or three of those together in my routine. And if you do, you don’t need an additional single-ingredient niacinamide product like a Niacinamide Toner, Serum or Booster.
Please note that this review is not sponsored in any way. We buy products ourselves, with our own money, and don’t accept exchanging goods, or money, for reviews. We are completely independent, and our reviews reflect that.
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