Centella Asiatica, it would seem, is the beauty industry’s answer to everything: redness, dullness, dryness, itchiness. I’ll take all that and a coke, please. But: even though cosrx’s new cica toner promises 81% of the wonder ingredient, is it good? Really? I’ve tested it and I’ve news: more in the cosrx cica toner review below.
What it is
With 7 Cica ingredients that help calm sensitive skin, this toner aids in soothing, moisturizing and strengthening to leave the skin healthier and more resilient.
cosrx
Enriched with 81% of CICA-7 Complex, 8 times higher than that in the pre-existing Centella line, this toner strengthens, balances, hydrates and relieves to improve the skin’s defenses.
CICA-7 Complex, which contains one of the highest concentrations of Cica, is infused with 7 Centella ingredients (Centella Asiatica Extract, Centella Asiatica leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Root Extract, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Madecassoside) to provide an advanced solution for delicate, fragile skin.
What is cica, anyway?
Cica isn’t an ingredient, it’s a description: it’s the shortened form of the French cicatrice/Latin cicatrix, meaning scar. Cosmetics made for ‘cica care’ are products made for scar healing – initially. The ingredient used for that is Centella Asiatica, Gotu Kola, a plant native to Southeast Asia. (It’s also called Tigergrass because lore has it that wounded tigers rolled around in the leaves. Awwwww!)
Studies have shown that Centella Asiatica has moisturising and anti-inflammatory effects. The most interesting effect, though, for skincare products is that it promotes “wound healing through increasing antioxidant activity and enhancing collagen synthesis” (Incidecoder).
Ingredients
Centella Asiatica’s “main biologically active compounds are pentacyclic triterpenoid saponins called asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic and madecassic acid (also called centellosides)” (Incidecoder). Especially well-studied are Centella Asiatica Extract, asiaticoside and madecassoside.
Whatever cosrx’s above word salad about 81% of their cica complex actually means (is their cica complex a solution of 81% centella dissolved in water or alcohol? Or do we talk about the toner being 100% of ingredients to which they add 81% of the cica complex?) – there can be no doubt that there’s a rather high amount of Centella Asiatica involved. Here’s the thing though – there’s basically nothing else (full list here). Sure, there’s stuff like moisturising humectants (Glycerin, Butylene Glycol) and a few soothing ingredients like Allantoin, Panthenol and Betaine.
What makes me raise an eyebrow is actually a surfactant, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate. I guess it’s there in its role as an emulsifier, but I don’t want surfactants in my toner!
What does cosrx cica toner do?
Application
SUCH a lot of pet peeves with this one! Because we’ve got a simple screw-top bottle, combined with a VERY watery toner inside. A spray nozzle would’ve been nice. Sigh. But instead, I pour a bit of the liquid into my hand, and apply with a patting motion. I use loads. (Don’t use a cotton pad, this will only soak up half of the precious liquid.)
Strangely, this toner sometimes stings, which isn’t the calming, soothing effect cosrx promotes. I’ve used Centella products before and can only conclude that maybe there can be too much of it.
Effect
I measured my hydration/moisture levels with my trusty skin analyser in the morning before cleansing and using the Pure Fit Cica Toner (34,5 for hydration, 23,0 for oil levels, which is ok-ish for me).
After cleansing and applying a generous amount of the toner AND waiting about 20 minutes, my hydration levels were rather good: 46,3 for hydration, 25,0 for oil levels.
But still: as good as it might seem, it’s worse than after applying cosrx’s Full Fit Propolis Synergy Toner I tested very recently, or Paula’s Choice Calm Soothing Toner before that.
I’ve got redness-prone skin, and I can’t say, after about four weeks of use, that cosrx’s cica toner did anything to help with that. What I can say: mask-wearing gives me some spots on the jawline every now and then, and they seem to heal uncommonly fast these days.
cosrx cica toner review: conclusion
I started this whole toner journey after my fave toner, cosrx’s brightening one, was discontinued. Their Pure Fit Cica Toner isn’t what I’m looking for. Sure, for me, a toner should only perform two basic functions: to hydrate and calm. For that, I know better ones than this. cosrx’s propolis toner comes to mind (I also love the slightly thicker texture). For this one, occlusive skincare id definitely needed to lock in hydration.
I can imagine that the Pure Fit Cica Toner works well in hot and humid climates. It might also be good on oily skin.
I’m personally slightly disappointed, especially regarding their promise of ‘soothing, moisturising, strengthening’. It only partially, if at all, does that for me.
150ml for around $22 at their own site. I got it for €17 at Yesstyle.
Please note that this post is not sponsored in any way. We buy products ourselves, with our own money, and don’t accept exchanging goods or money for reviews. We are completely independent, and our reviews reflect that.
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