You’ve been shopping around for a great SPF for a while now, and have found some you genuinely like. And then, you realise: but what about UVA protection?! Shouldn’t that – be higher? Yes, it should, and here’s what I learned while being on the search of that unicorn – a SPF with high UVA protection.
UVA, and UVA protection
I do find wavelengths and so on incredibly complicated (I was also rather bad at physics at school) until I saw graphics of it. Have a look:
If you’ve read a sunscreen review on this blog lately, you’ll also get why we include wavelengths of filters, and why that range will be between 280 and 400. This will show you how protective that filter is.
Sunscreen posts often start with an explanation that UVB filters will protect you from burning, and UVA filters will protect you from aging processes. But it’s not that simple. UVB rays will be absorbed by clouds and trees and don’t penetrate skin deeply. They fluctuate during the day. Still, they can promote inflammation that can result in sunburn and DNA mutations that might result in skin cancer.
It’s generally said that the more sunburns in childhood and young age, your risk to develop skin cancer will rise exponentially. A good protection from UVB rays is therefore important. But also remember that sunscreen is only one step in a multilayer approach to keep yourself safe! Staying in the shade, wearing protective hats, clothing and glasses, don’t go out in the midday sun etc. are others.
UVA vs. UVB
UVA rays don’t differ in strength all year round, and will penetrate skin more deeply than UVB rays. They’re most used in tanning beds, can penetrate windows and clouds.
They also damage collagen and keratin strands that keep your skin supple. This is happening when you tan:
“Exposure causes genetic damage to cells on the innermost part of your top layer of skin, where most skin cancers occur. The skin tries to prevent further damage by darkening, resulting in a tan.”
Skincancer.org
Conclusion: looking for a high UVA protection isn’t just a vanity project – sunscreens with a high UVA don’t only prevent wrinkles and other signs of aging, but also are a very real protection from skin cancers.
Sunscreen filters that protect solely against UVA radiation
- Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone): powder, oil-soluble
- Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A Plus): powder, oil-soluble
- Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate: powder, water-soluble
How to recognize UVA protection
Annoyingly, there’re different systems used worldwide.
- UVA in a circle: used in Europe, means that UVA protection is at least 1/3 of the SPF.
- PPD (Persistent Pigment Darkening), mainly used by some French brands: equivalent to SPF, tells you the exact number of UVA protection.
- PA (+ to ++++): used in Japan and Korea, means Protection of UVA. Then, PA+ is PPD 2 – 4; PA++ is PPD 4 – 8, PA+++ is PPD 8 – 16 and PA++++ = PPD > 16.
- “Broad Spectrum” is a term used by manufacturers in the USA: 90% of absorption is in the range up to 370nm.
- Boots Star System: used in the UK. Shows the UVA value relative to their SPF value: if the UVA protection is 90% or more of the SPF – 5*. 80-90% get 4*, 60-80% get 3*.
The problem
Generally, in the Western world, sunscreen isn’t made to be worn every day. Manufacturers make products that’re meant to be worn in summer or on vacation. That means there’ll be reliable UVB protection, but neglectable UVA filters. On top of that, as a consumer wanting to have a good UVA protection in winter, you’ll have to look for super high SPFs that’ll then, in turn, will give you a decent UVA protection.
The second problem will become clear when you look at the filters above. Not only UVA filters, but also most of UVB filters, are powders that are nearly always oil-soluble. That means, the formulation will be oily – a problem that manufacturers battle with the inclusion of alcohol denat.
Both problems contribute to the fact that cosmetically elegant or pleasant to wear formulas aren’t really developed in the West. If they are, this will be generally achieved by adding alcohol.
When I look at sunscreen filters, I want to see filters that protect against UVA right at the beginning of the ingredient list, followed preferably by ones that offer both UVA and UVB protection.
My “favorite” sunscreens with a high UVA protection
*crickets*
*tumbleweeds roll by*
*more crickets*
My favourite sunscreens are Asian ones, because I genuinely like wearing them. They’re always lightweight and great as foundation bases. Although those are mostly PA++++ (and rumoured to be around or above 20), like the Skin Aqua or Canmake, the Isntree Watery Sun Gel I tried last year has only a PPD around 12?!???!?!? Uffff.
The Garnier Anti-Age Super UV that was hyped everywhere last year was one of the biggest flops of 2021 for both Astrid and me: a pilling, yet shiny mess on both of us – but came with a PPD over 40.
Beyer&Soehne’s sunscreen oil and sunscreen lotion both boast of a very high PPD, but are, in our opinion, both similarly unwearable. V.Sun? Same.
The only SPF with a higher PPD I can tolerate is Evy Technology UV Face Mousse SPF30 that comes with a whopping PPD 27. It’s very wearable in winter, but I didn’t like it a lot in late Spring when I tried it in 2021.
- More: Sunscreen in winter?!
Conclusion
Here’s my conclusion: instead of applying SPFs that I actively hate, I actually use those I love liberally (and try not to worry about the little UVA protection). Whenever I do start to worry, I look at the Australian Nambour study:
The Nambour Study was conducted in Queensland, Australia from 1992 to 1996, a randomised controlled study (aka the most significant study method) with 1.600 participants. Half of the group applied sunscreen daily, the other half applied sunscreen whenever they thought it was needed (remember, it was the 1990s). The sunscreen used had an SPF16 (!!!) and used Avobenzone and Octinoxate (more here).
The Purito Scandal revisited
After 4.5 years, the daily sunscreen group showed no increased signs of aging. The control group (sunscreen use whenever they felt like it) had a 40% higher incidence for skin cancer during the trial. Over the following 15 years, the daily sunscreen group had a 73% lower incidence for skin cancer.
On top of that, I’ll never not bug sunscreen brands about UVA protection, and will absolutely roast the ones who will (mostly snappishly) point at their broad spectrum rating and proclaim “that’s the law, we’re adhering to it” (looking at you, Ultra Violette) – because we do deserve more.
Please note that this post is not sponsored in any way. We buy products ourselves, with our own money, and don’t accept exchanging goods or money for reviews. We are completely independent, and our reviews reflect that.
