Augustinus Bader The Cream update: I’ve changed my opinion big time since I’ve reviewed The Cream way back – because of the TFC8 complex. Read on to see a stellar example of a big dose of fairy dust!
When I reviewed the outrageously expensive (50ml are 225€) The Cream two years ago, I was torn. I mainly liked the double-cream like texture. On top of that, I thought my trial size did indeed plump fine lines and calm my skin. I also liked the very pared-back skincare routine, because The Cream shouldn’t be used in combination with other actives per their website.
On the other hand, I wasn’t convinced about the so-called “trial” results quoted on the website. I found their claims unconvincing, too.
But while I had a ‘live and let live’ approach to The Cream (if you’ve got 250$ to spend, why not?!) back then, my stance on that has changed. (Read my initial review here.)
I haven’t, btw, gone and bought myself a new bottle. This is about having a new perspective upon skincare marketing and the beauty business.
Augustinus Bader The Cream update: The TFC8 complex
Looking at the ingredient list for The Cream without the TFC8 complex, you have a nicely formulated moisturizer. Not exactly basic, but then, not exactly earth-shattering either. There’re antioxidants, a lot of soothing, hydrating and moisturising ingredients, ceramides, peptides and also a bit of retinyl palmitate.
Here’s what the Augustinus Bader site tells you abut the hero ingredient complex:
(…) TFC8®, our proprietary Trigger Factor Complex. TFC8® comprises natural amino acids, high-grade vitamins and synthesised molecules naturally found in skin (…).
I don’t know about you, but while I’m fairly educated when it comes to skincare, this tells me absolutely nothing. Zero. Zilch. What’s more, we have to take Bader’s word for it, because unlike other well-researched skincare ingredients (say niacinamide, Vitamin C or Retinol), it’s nearly impossible to find out what’s actually in this complex. The Bader marketing team also gets a bit het up when you actually question them about it. Astrid can confirm – she went to an event, did ask and got a snippy “you’ll have to trust us” reply.
Now, dupe heroes Skinskool found the patent (kudos to them, I tried unsuccessfully) and here’re the ingredients:
Trigger Factor Complex consists of water, ethanol, glycerol, vitamin E acetate, hydrogenated lecithin, cholesterol, L-arginine, L-phenylalanine, L-lysine, L-alanine-glutamine, L-tryptophane, L-tyrosine, L-valine, L-Prolin, L-taurine, ceramide NG, ceramide NP, oleic acid, palmitic acid, sodium ascorbate, phenoxyethanol, mustard seed oil, EDTA, oligopeptide.
Skinskool Beauty
Enter: fairy dust
But am I happy now?! No I’m not. (The ingredients are fine! They look good! But… like in other good moisturisers!)
And here’s why: The Inkey List recently came under fire for dodgy marketing strategies with their Succinic Acid Acne Treatment. (Labmuffin has the tea.) A quick reminder: their succinic acid treatment mainly uses the very well-known and researched salicylic acid as an anti-acne ingredient. Succinic acid though hasn’t been well-researched yet, and still it’s touted by TIL as the best thing EVAH for acne. The Succinic Acid Treatment is very much a run-of-the-mill salicylic acid acne product.
Which reminds me a lot of the angel/fairy dust thing in skincare in general – a very standard marketing mechanism where brands promote their product full of star flower stem cells from Tahiti (random example) giving your skin the glow you want, and then you’ll realise that it’s your standard moisturizer with some ceramides and peptides and antioxidants.
And I wonder: obviously this works great if your brand is actually the only one using a certain ingredient, as it is with the Succinic Acid by TIL. See where this is headed?
The comfort of luxury
Very expensive spas and doctor brands work on the same principle: people trust in them. There’s a reason Clinique counter SAs still wear lab coats. People feel that both the price point and the medical expertise, no matter how bogus, will inspire trust. Also, we don’t like to be duped, and the more expensive something is, the more we think it is about quality.
Helena Rubinstein knew that in 1902, when she launched her first beauty product, a run-of-the-mill moisturizer that she gave a luxurious packaging, a presumptuous name and some fairy dust: it was supposed to include Carpathian flowers. Her financial advisor proposed to sell it for 1 shilling (a working-class family would have a budget of 22s for one week at the same time), but she proposed to sell it for 7, because “women want something reassuringly expensive” (as quoted by Lisa Eldridge inthe third part of “Makeup – A Glamourous History”).
History (and marketing) truly repeats itself
I don’t mind the fairy dust thing when I like the product, can look into their claims and decide for myself – like in Paula’s Choice’s CBD Milk. Augustinus Bader The Cream though is a different animal. There’s no transparency, but instead the brand demands belief. Just because something is expensive it doesn’t mean it’s cutting edge.
I really, REALLY don’t want to support that kind of marketing. Instead, with this post I want to shed some light on the practices in the beauty business. Don’t pay into their promises.
Please note that this post is not sponsored in any way. We buy products ourselves, with our own money, and don’t accept exchanging goods or money for reviews. We are completely independent, and our reviews reflect that.
2 Comments