This is, obviously, my review of Paula’s Choice’s CBD Milk, which I like more than I should, but also, it’s about CBD in skincare, the wonderful concept of angel dust (thanks to podcasters/bloggers/scientists The Beauty Brains) and what constitutes good skincare. So maybe grab a beverage of your choice and brace yourself for a wild ride. (If you couldn’t care less about that but want the Paula’s Choice CBD Milk review, by all means scroll down for just that.)
CBD is huge right now
CBD is “is a phytocannabinoid discovered in 1940. It is one of 113 identified cannabinoids in cannabis plants, along with tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), and accounts for up to 40% of the plant’s extract.” (Thank you, Wikipedia.)
It won’t get you high – the one that does that is THC. “CBD is both the easiest and cheapest cannabinoid to extract and purify, says Dr. Andrew Salzman, chairman of Chilmark Labs, a rare cannabinoid manufacturing and processing company.” (Fashionista)
And it’s everywhere. It’s not only lifestyle and wellness brands embracing the ingredient (think candles, chocolates and lube). It’s also celebrities investing in CBD brands. CBD is hip. The economic output is expected to reach $40 billion in 2021 (Fashionista). And increasingly it’s found in skincare and haircare.
What to think about when buying CBD cosmetics
If you’re thinking about adding CBD products into your routine, I think it pays off to use the same scepticism that you’re using anyways to navigate the crowded beauty market: is the brand reliable? Does transparently communicate ingredients? Does it charge a huge mark-up for just adding CBD?
And, especially in the US, all wellness and beauty companies cashing in on CBD product should at least be conscious about the fact that “Black people are eight times more likely to be arrested for low-level cannabis charges than white people, and hispanic people are five times more likely to be arrested for the same charges” (Fashionista). There lie huge racial discrepancies beneath the use of CBD, and wouldn’t it be nice if companies would actually support communities hit hard by ‘the war on drugs’?
Angel Dust
The Beauty Brains made the concept known for a broader audience. When I took a course in beauty marketing, it was very much prevalent there, and you’ll know it as well. It’s the watermelon from a few years ago, the gold, the cica.
It’s, in short, the buzzy ingredient that makes you want to buy a product. The Beauty Brains call it angel dust, because after buying, you’ll likely realise that there’s only 0,1% of ginger in your new ginger shampoo, and after googling ‘ginger+haircare’ you suddenly understand there’s little evidence around that ginger actually will do something for your tresses (random example).
What does science say?
Skincare brands will point out that CBD is soothing, hydrating, anti-inflammatory until hell freezes over, but some are more open than others about what’s really going on right now: nobody has a clue.
Fashionista’s ‘cannabis expert’ Charlotte Palermino says:
“These products might be super efficacious because of or in spite of the CBD” (…). “It’s trendy, allows you to charge a markup and it’s cool.”
Elaborating, she points out that dosage is a major problem, though: different to skincare staples like retinol and Vitamin C, we just don’t have scientific studies pointing out the optimal percentages for them to work properly: “People are taking educated guesses on correct doses,” she says, as “no one really knows” exactly how much is required to have effect (Fashionista).
Some skincare experts propose that CBD can increase the efficacy and absorption of other soothing and hydrating ingredients or even boost them.
Paula’s Choice CBD Milk review
What it is
“CBD Milk halts signs of aging by reducing the reactivity in skin that causes discoloration, texture changes and redness for a healthier, younger-looking complexion.”
Paula’s Choice
Honestly, I needed to read that twice to see how the anti-aging claims were born, but for PC, the reasoning apparently follows the line of ‘reactive’ (sensitive skin that’s prone to breaking out, hyperpigmentation and the following changes in texture and evenness of skin) skin LOOKING older than one that’s not. I’m not sure I agree with that reasoning.
Ingredients
Oils. So. Many. Oils. Including hemp seed oil (that’s coming from the seeds of the hemp plant, while CBD is harvested from stems, flowers and leaves) that mainly contains omega fatty acids, which are great for moisturising and having anti-inflammatory properties. Borage Seed Oil also has soothing properties, same as Centella Asiatica. Then, as per usual for PC, there’re a lot of antioxidants, hyaluronic acid and panthenol.
Application
From just reading the inci list, I’d have thought the CBD Skin Transformative Milk to be much thicker/oilier, but in this instance, ‘milk’ absolutely covers it: it’s a thin, milky serum that faintly smells like dill to me. I like the scent (it’s obviously not an added fragrance or an essential oil, because duh, Paula’s Choice).
I use it every morning just after toner and it applies and spreads like a dream. There’s a wonderful velvety feel to my skin after applying, and my following products (moisturiser, SPF, foundation) apply without any problems whatsoever afterwards.
Effect
And here’s where PC is loosing me. “Visibly smooths, calms & evens skin tone”? Eeeeeh no. It hydrates very well, but I haven’t seen any changes in the smoothness, calmness and evenness of my skintone at all since I started using it about one month ago. Nada. Nothing. Niente. Null.
Paula’s Choice CBD Milk review: Worth it?
Let us quickly circle back to the beginnings of this post. My personal experience with PC’s CBD Milk shows the ‘angel dust effect’ in full force. It’s a wonderfully formulated serum that’s on the rich site and hydrates very well, and having additional goodies like anti-oxidants, skin replenishing and soothing ingredients.
I love the skin feel of this, and love having it in my routine right now. (The weather changes every five minutes and my skin is on the drier site, plus stressed from wearing masks.) In short, marketed along the same lines as PC’s Calm Serum, I’d be all over it.
What’s good skincare?
Having a buzzy ingredient, though, justifies the rather steep price in the minds of PC. It’s 30ml/1 oz. for $49, while, for example, their Omega+ Serum is $37, the Calm Serum $36 and the Berry Serum $31. I find that rather hard to stomach, truth to be told. On the other hand, right now, I find using the serum very enjoyable. So, what is good skincare? The effect driven retinols, or the pleasant feeling serum? What makes you feel good?
Maybe it’s time for me to question the result-driven anything I’ve promoted for so long on this blog.
Please note that this post is not sponsored in any way. We buy products ourselves, with our own money, and don’t accept exchanging goods or money for reviews. We are completely independent, and our reviews reflect that.
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