It’s purple. It has glitter. It promises smooth skin and glow – so no wonder the TikTok crowd loves it, no?! As a Paula slash mask slash exfoliating mask lover, this mask seems like the perfect product for me – but is it?!?! Read on for my Paula’s Choice Exfoliant Peel review.
The Brand
PC, the forerunner of science-based skincare, now owned by Unilever and nowadays rather famous for weird launches (limited edition sunscreen?), unfortunate claims (smooth lines in 20 minutes!) and ramming down their hero product of 20 years down everybody’s throat on social media (oh 2% BHA, bane of my life). It’s a tough world in an overcrowded market.
Paula’s Choice Exfoliant Peel review: What it is
Description
A gentle rinse-off exfoliant peel that dramatically resurfaces skin. The multi-acid blend is suitable for weekly use and visibly smooths wrinkles, refines rough, bumpy texture, brightens tone & unclogs pores.
Paula’s Choice
A wash-off exfoliating mask with AHAs and BHA. (Btw, all you English native speakers: isn’t ‘exfoliant peel’ a tautology?! I mean, exfoliant and peeling mean the same thing, don’t they?)
Acids and me
I’ve been very, very wary with acids since I wrecked my skin barrier circa 2016. I then realized that I actually don’t really need them – at least not daily as a serum or something similar. My skin is very content with my Vitamin C and retinol regime, but once a week, I actually do like a wash-off peeling mask. I’ve been using The Ordinary’s AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution since 2018, and it has been working great for me. And one of the reasons for this is, I think, because it’s so harsh (it is. It really, really is) that it forces me to be extra careful with it. I have to tailor my complete routine to it when I use it.
Ingredients
Aqua, Aminomethyl Propanol (pH adjuster), Glycolic Acid (alpha hydroxy acid/exfoliant), Lactic Acid (alpha hydroxy acid/exfoliant), Mandelic Acid (alpha hydroxy acid/exfoliant), Isoamyl Laurate (emollient), Tartaric Acid (alpha hydroxy acid/exfoliant), Butylene Glycol (texture enhancer), Propanediol (hydration), Salicylic Acid (beta hydroxy acid/exfoliant) , Malic Acid (alpha hydroxy acid/exfoliant), Clitoria Ternatea (Butterfly Pea) Flower Extract (antoxidant/ skin soothing), Sodium Hyaluronate (skin replenishing), Glycyrrhetinic Acid (licorice-derived skin soothing), Glycerin (skin replenishing), Tocopherol (vitamin E/ antioxidant), Bisabolol (skin soothing), Allantoin (skin soothing), Hydroxyethylcellulose (thickener), Hydrogenated Lecithin (skin-restoring), Xanthan Gum (thickener), Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate (emulsifier), Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 (stabilizer/ thickener), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891) (mineral derived pigment), Mica (CI 77019) (mineral derived pigment), Tin Oxide (mineral derived pigment), Phenoxyethanol (preservative)
Paula’s Choice
So. Many. Acids.
So. Many. Namely, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Malic Acid (all AHAs) and Salicylic Acid (BHA).
AHAs work better for drier skintypes and surface-level skin concerns, like acne-marks and hyperpigmentation. They work by loosening the ‘glue’ that hold skin cells together, thus promoting exfoliation. Because BHAs are lipophilic, they’re able to dissolve the mix of sebum and dead skin cells that lead to acne. They’re also anti-inflammatory and antibacterial.
There’s also soothing Allantoin and Bisabolol. PC states that the Butterfly Pea Flower Extract also has soothing properties, while giving the mask its purple-blue colour. And, oh yeah, mica. Because, you know, glitter makes it able to SEE where you applied the mask! Duh!!! (Quote: Its lavender tint joins with shimmer mineral pigment mica so you can see where the rinse-off exfoliant has been applied.)
Sustainability
(We are) reducing our contribution to the climate crisis through materials sourcing, product development & shipping. Our end goal? Net zero emissions by 2030.
Paula’s Choice
For that, they try to reduce packaging, offset carbon emissions, audit gas emissions and reduce air shipments. (I guess that all came with Unilever’s takeover.)
Application
PC recommends:
You can use this peel morning or night although we find that most prefer evening use. Apply a generous amount to clean, dry skin, avoiding the immediate eye area and lips. Leave on for ten minutes then rinse using warm water. Pat dry. Do not use other exfoliants at the same time as this product. Do not use more than once per week.
Paula’s Choice
This is quite par the course of other exfoliating masks on the market.
I use it once per week in the evening. I apply about three hazelnut-sized blobs on my skin, wait 10 minutes and remove it with plenty of water.
Texture
Yes, purple. And glitter. Let’s move on. It’s a thick, spreadable gel, which makes it easier to apply than The Ordinary’s.
Effect
Um. Ummmmmmmmm. UMMMMMMMMMMM.
There – isn’t any visible effect on my skin?! Here’s what happens when I use The Ordinary: first, it lightly stings. When I take it off, I can see how bright my skin looks, and next morning, it feels super smooth. Nothing of this happens when I use Paula’s Choice’s mask.
I actually assume that even there’re 25% of AHAs in here, I expect the pH is a bit higher, thus rendering some of the acids ineffective. Sadly, different to PSA, for example, Paula’s Choice doesn’t say. But, that’s the only explanation I have.
Comparison
Next to The Ordinary’s, I’ve tried PSA’s Multi Acids & Vitamin C peel. I didn’t really get along with that one, because I reacted to something in it. Objectively, though, it comes with A LOT more bells and whistles than PC’s peels – more antioxidants, more soothing ingredients, Vitamin C. With the basic formula of The Ordinary, which does basically nothing but peel, it’s much easier to actually do a lot of harm to your skin than with PC and PSA.
Paula’s Choice Exfoliant Peel review: Worth it?
Let me venture a wild guess: PC launched this to launch a ‘viral’ product. EVERYTHING in this is geared towards TikTok and the ‘gram: the colour, the glitter, and its formulation. It’s an exfoliant for the millennial crowd, who, I’d argue, doesn’t grapple with the same skin concerns as my generation (I’m 45). While it’s definitely possible to wreck your skin with it, too, it’s harder to achieve than with The Ordinary. And its success proves my point: it has been winning awards right, left and center. Do me a favour, though: it’s much, much too expensive to buy it for a video. Also, just use skincare that’s truly beneficial for YOUR skin.
Rating
Availability & Price
30ml are 46€, or $42 at Paula’s Choice’s own sites and at a lot of other retailers of your choice.
Please note that this post is not sponsored in any way. We buy products ourselves, with our own money, and don’t accept exchanging goods or money for reviews. We are completely independent, and our reviews reflect that.
