Another rinse-off mask from the cheaper sister brand of high-end (and hyped) Allies of Skin: but – is the peeling mask worth your hard earned money? Let’s find out in the following PSA Follow the Light review.
The Brand
PSA is the sister brand of super expensive Singaporean brand Allies of Skin (AoS) and stands for Purposeful Skincare by Allies. (I’ll also review the AoS products I bought in the future.) I’ve already reviewed two products I bought during their Black Friday sale:
- More: PSA Reset Cleanser
It was founded in 2020, as Nicholas Travis, founder and CEO of both brands tells it:
“I had the idea for PSA when I was in Malaysia and Thailand, (…). I soon realised that the cost of one Allies of Skin product, which is around $120 for a cream, is equivalent to 1/4 of a sales associate’s monthly salary. (… Then I) saw an opportunity to create a range of products that were not only efficacious but fun, easy-to-use, and wallet-friendly. More importantly, they should give you the freedom to customise your routine based on where you are on your skincare journey.”
PSA
What it is
“Uneven skin tone, spots, and fine lines are no match for this Multi Acids & Vitamin C peel. This revitalising and glow-inducing weekly peel is designed to remove dead skin and restore your skin’s vibrancy. Supercharged with 10% Glycolic & Lactic Acid, 5% Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid & Pomegranate Enzymes Complex, Centella Asiatica, Glutathione, and Licorice Root, this peel leaves your skin feeling hydrated and gently exfoliated, revealing fresher and brighter looking skin.”
PSA
What I think
What an interesting concept, combining Vitamin C and exfoliating acids with lots of brightening and soothing ingredients! I really like the combo of an exfoliating wash-off mask with added brightening benefits. I also like that Follow the Light doesn’t max out possible acid percentages and stresses soothing and hydrating skin.
PSA Follow the Light review: Ingredients
The peeling action comes from a combination of Glycolic and Lactic Acid (AHA) and an undisclosed amount of Salicylic Acid (BHA) that amounts to 10-10.5% of acids. The pH is between 3.5 and 4.5. Glycolic Acid needs a pH of around 3.6 to be effective. Lactic Acid needs a pH of 3.8, so we’re well within range. Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid is a Vitamin C derivate that nevertheless acts very much like L-Ascorbic Acid and is more stable.
Remarkably, the formula includes not only tons of antioxidants, but also of skin-soothing ingredients. I’m still not really sure about the inclusion of antioxidants in a wash-off formula, but sure. Eight (!) skin-soothing ingredients (most notably Centella Asiatica, Green Tea, Liquorice Extract, Allantoin and Bisabolol) are remarkable and will be very welcome in a peeling mask.
Application
Follow the Light has a slightly oily feeling, thick gel formula that’s rather easy to apply and spread (use it directly after cleansing). I apply around four to five pumps and leave it on for 20 minutes (as advised). Then I wash it off with lots of water. Finally, I do a pampering routine, consisting of lots of hydrating and moisturising products. I always use sunscreen after using this the night before. But then, that’s a given, isn’t it?!??!
Effect
Let me first stress that I’m used to The Ordinary’s AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution (review) that I use once a week. TO’s “Vampire Peeling” usually gives me an insane glow and baby-smooth skin. But: I’m the first one to admit that it IS rather harsh. (A direct comparison below.)
Follow the Light doesn’t give me the same extreme glow and smoothness. While it definitely does peel, it gives me a nice, healthy looking skin that doesn’t feel aggravated and doesn’t need extreme pampering.
I can’t attest anything to the brightening claims. First, I do use other Vitamin C products in my routine, and second, Vitamin C does need some time to work. A few masking sessions won’t give you exceptional results.
Comparison
Every mask in this category will have to measure against The Ordinary’s AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution. (And, maybe, Paula’s Choice’s new-ish Skin Perfecting 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant-Peeling.) Those two both pack an incredible punch and shouldn’t be used by people not used to acids.
Follow the Light is different to both in that it uses a lesser (but still effective) amount of acids, and also includes Vitamin C for extra brightening properties.
Where Follow the Light truly shines (hah) is in making its formula really gentle at the same time, thus making it more suitable for people with sensitive skin or people not getting along with acids that well.
It’s undisputed that TO’s Peeling Solution is by far the most affordable product, but while it does exfoliate your skin, it does little else. Surprisingly, while I haven’t yet tried PC’s peeling, it doesn’t pack the same soothing punch as PSA’s product, which is also more affordable than PC’s.
If you want a quick-working product, both TO’s and PC’s need only 10mins, while Follow the Light is supposed to stay on your skin for 20mins.
Packaging problems
I rarely comment on packaging until it either has special benefits or faults. This one falls into the second category. A lot of PSA’s and also AoS’s products have airless pump dispensers in their tubes. The problem is: they don’t work well. The small skincare forum I’m a member of is full with accounts of tubes that stopped working suddenly. It’s also full of accounts of CS not being really forthcoming with replacements. I experienced the same.
I was finally able to get a replacement of my tube that stopped working. (Right now I own three products packaged that way: one stopped working completely, this one – Follow the Light – works intermittently, one is fine.) The thing is: it’s a faulty airless dispenser, and there’ll be an influx of air into a product that’s supposed to be packaged air-tight. I wouldn’t recommend opening it and then not using it for a long time. Open it and regularly use it to prevent major oxidisation.
PSA Follow the Light review: Worth it
While there’re a lot of details I really like about Follow the Light, I’m not the perfect match for the mask: first, my skin can tolerate higher percentages of acids. Second, I regularly use Vitamin C serums, so I’m not dependant on a wash-off product.
Follow the Light really excels if you want some exfoliation, but need loads of soothing and want a boost of antioxidants as well. It has an excellent price-point for that, especially compared to Paula’s Choice’s wash-off exfoliant mask.
Price & Availability
I ordered at the AOS/PSA website, and was very pleased with the quick shipping (the warehouse for Europe is in the Netherlands). Niche-Beauty, Beautylish, Asos and Boots also carry the brand. 50ml/1.7fl.oz. are $39/44€.
Please note that this review is not sponsored in any way. We buy products ourselves, with our own money, and don’t accept exchanging goods, or money, for reviews. We are completely independent, and our reviews reflect that.
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