When I ordered my Dries van Noten lipstick, I also was curious enough to add the fragrance sample set to my order. I love when brands offer sample sets – it gives you a great option to test out what you might like and how a brand’s direction looks like. The 10-piece sample pack is called Collection Modepaleis, getting the name from the Antwerp flagship store. Here’s my Dries van Noten fragrances review.
The brand
Dries van Noten is a Belgian designer from Antwerp. Antwerp is a wonderful city: the center of chocolate, diamonds and fashion in Belgium. What’s not to like?!
I can’t say much about his design style, but a big thing for him are contradictions, juxtapositions, and combining things that seemingly don’t belong together. Beauty, for him, is boring (at least the conventional side of beauty). For the perfumes, his brief centered heavily around inspirations found in his big garden in Antwerp.
In 2017, Dries van Noten sold the majority of stakes to Spanish company Puig. Immediately, they started talking about creating a beauty line. (Puig also owns Louboutin Beauty, Penhaligon’s and L’Artisan Parfumeur.) There’re plans for a complete makeup line (whatever that means). Right now, there’re lipsticks, ten fragrances and a few accessories.
The collection
“An unexpected, rule-breaking collection of genderless Eaux de Parfums that pay homage to traditional perfumery.”
Right now, there’s a line-up of 10 fragrances (Eaux de Parfums) that retails for between 220-240€ for 100ml. You can also buy 200ml refills for 260-290€. Then, there’re three sample sets, three hand creams and two soaps.
The experience
There’s a US and EU site where you can order, and orders will ship from the US and EU warehouse respectively.
If you want anything that’s not in stock, choose the “get notified” option – this works really well. I liked that there’s apparently no big restocking issues and no artificial shortage.
My order arrived at my doorstep after four days. It was very nicely and securely packaged in tissue paper in a Dries van Noten paper pouch.
Dries van Noten fragrances review: Collection Modepaleis – fragrance discovery set
This discovery set brings together in one refined coffret the whole Dries Van Noten Eau de Parfum collection in 2ml format. Named after the historical boutique and an iconic symbol of Dries Van Noten, Collection Modepaleis invites you to embark on the Dries Van Noten impossible combination journey.
Dries van Noten
This set entitles you to 32€ off any full-size Eau de Parfum. This offer is valid for one-time use and is non-transferable. Subsequent purchases of any Dries Van Noten Discovery Set will not be redeemable against purchase.
10x2ml, 48€
Sadly, the little vials aren’t spray bottles, and also are made from clear glass, although it looks like patterned in the picture on the site. The quotes below are from the perfumers who created each fragrance.
Jardin de l’Orangerie
“A beautiful duality of nature-inspired orange blossom with the contrast of sweet, opulent, milky, mature orange blossom; this flower can express so many different faces.”
Daniela Andrier
Top Note: Neroli Buds
Heart Note: Jasmine, Ylang Ylang
Base Note: Orange Blossom Milk, Sandalwood
Daniela Andrier is responsible for nearly all Prada fragrances, so if you like those, I think you might like Jardin de l’Orangerie.
It’s not a fresh orange blossom scent at all, but seems, to me, one step removed from Fracas. There’s an atomic blast of white, milky flowers. Add some coconut and you’d end up with Bronze Goddess. There’s not much of the duality mentioned above; for me, it’s a one-note scent. I can’t detect any sandalwood at all. Very good longevity (10hrs+). Projection is rather close to skin.
Get Fracas instead.
Neon Garden
“I wanted to express unconventional classicism through using orris, from iris root, which is so elegant and haute couture. But I wanted to shake it, to heckle it, with the energy of mint.”
Fanny Bal
Top Note: Mint Essence Duo (Spearmint & Peppermint)
Heart Note: Carrot Heart, Iris Accord
Base Note: Musk, Ambroxan
This opens with a blast of herbal mint (no chewing gum, no breath mint) and a very green, sharp iris. This is emphatically not a favourite of mine, especially because the drydown is like a men’s deodorant for me – a sharp metallic scent. Strangely, after about 8hrs I started to notice the musk creeping in. Coincidentally, I think it would be great layered with Jardin de l’Orangerie.
Wears very close to the skin, longevity is rather good with 10+hrs.
Rosa Carnivora
“This is nature: unfiltered, with all its little flaws. This rose is not romantic: it is strangely beautiful, real, imperfect and ambiguous.”
Daphne Bugey
Top Note: Pink Pepper, Rose
Heart Note: Vetiver, Floral Bouquet
Base Note: Patchouli, Cistus
Daphne Bugey has created a lot of fragrances for Le Labo, including one of my favourites, Rose 31. This rose is a very different animal, though: The top note mix of pink pepper and rose is very well done, combining the fresh scent of a plucked rose with the spiciness of the pepper and a slight vegetal woodiness of the vetiver. If you previously thought rose scents are too floral or heavy on you, this would be one to try. I find it really airy, spicy and “dry”, more a peppery scent than a rose one.
This wears VERY close to the skin, though (maybe it’s different with a spray bottle). I need to bury my nose in my wrist to pick up notes. The dry-down is rather unremarkable, with a generic resinous, leathery scent. I can’t pick up any patchouli at all. Longevity is sub par for the Dries van Noten line.
Raving Rose
“The rose is an icon for Dries but I wanted to disrupt its classicism to create a rose that is not a rose, not taking itself too seriously, ultra-modern and spicy.”
Louise Turner
Top Note: Pink Pepper, Black Pepper
Heart Note: Rosa Water, Rose Absolute
Base Note: Cashmeran, Musk
Yeah, well, here is when the line takes a serious turn for the worse. Not because the fragrance itself is bad – not at all. But: the juxtaposition of the blurb “rose that is not a rose, ultra-modern” with the fragrance itself? Oh honey no. This is the most boring, most ubiquitous rose fragrance that you’ll have smelled before, in lines that run from The Body Shop to niche. Even in their own line-up, there’s another rose-pepper fragrance!
The pepper in the top notes gives it a fresh spiciness that nearly has the citrus note of Szechuan pepper and that prevents the middle notes from being too heavy. I would like this one but for the dry-down which suffers from a cashmeran/musk note that translates into something warm and woody and boring. (Longevity is 7hrs+.) There have been much, much much better rose-wood fragrances (Rose 31 one of them). First scent I’m really disappointed in. Next.
Cannabis Patchouli
“In Dries world, antagonistic elements are combined to create surprise. This fragrance is like a light and dark olfactive pattern of fresh green leaves of clary sage aromatics rubbing against the woody leaves of patchouli.”
Nicolas Bonneville
Top Note: Bergamot, Cedar Leaves
Heart Note: Sage Incense, Patchouli
Base Note: Vetiver, Musk
I’m afraid! This isn’t a fragrance I’d ever go for. But: I’m not mad about it! Opens with a cologne-like blast of fresh bergamot, and then turns into a bouquet of green leaves: sage, something that smells like woodruff to me, and a very cool, fresh patchouli with just a hint of its earthiness. Not a hint of cannabis at all. The whole thing is rounded out by (again) a very metallic vetiver. Reminiscences of classical men’s cologne, but still unisex. I’d call this bergamot – sage – vetiver. Serious projection at first, then declines.
Santal Greenery
“The union of two opposites, yet perfectly and poetically balanced: resilient sandalwood with the lively, green leaf of fig – the everlasting and the ephemeral together.”
Nisrine Grillie
Top Note: Bergamot, Grapefruit
Heart Note: Violet Leaves, Creamy Fig Accord
Base Note: Sandalwood, White Musk
I love fig scents in all forms, so trust me when I say this: this is completely unremarkable and if you told me this is Zara, I would’ve believed you. Generic, creamy, milky-sweet fig after a short burst of fresh citrus that ends in a sweet, skin-like musky dry-down that wears very closely to the skin. Longevity is 6hrs+. I like it. Worth 220€? Hm.
Voodoo Chile
Rosemary & Patchouli
“I was inspired by the iconic Jimi Hendrix track. Rosemary and patchouli are the opposite forces in action here but the rosemary – like Hendrix’s guitar – is distorted to make it hot and dense.”
Nicolas Beaulieu
Top Note: Cannabis Accord, Rosemary
Heart Note: Lentisque, Patchouli
Base Note: Cedarwood, Sandalwood Essence
Sigh. Perfumers of the world, you’re not edgy just because you’re using cannabis! Case in point: Voodoo Chile. Opens with a sweet resin-patchouli accord and an overlay of whiff of shisha bar/sweet vape smoke. Lush’s Karma, but remove the orange and make it expensive. Too sweet and lacking the rosemary or something to balance it. The middle notes overpower everything and even turn the base notes into a sweet resinous wood. Longevity is 10hrs+.
Rock the Myrrh
“Inspired by the Parisian boutique, with its elegant and precious textures, and its eclectic and mystical atmosphere, an overdose of myrrh is joined by resins of benzoin and cistus dressed up with cypress and pink pepper.”
Amelie Jacquin
Top Note: Cypress, Pink Pepper
Heart Note: Myrrh, Patchouli
Base Note: Suede, Benzoin
The vanillary pepper top note makes way for a polite myrrh and patchouli middle note. There’s just the barest hint of cypress leaves – something green and waxy with a slight memory of olive leaves. This is diametrically opposed to the type of fragrance I like to wear, but I don’t hate it. If you like spice-based fragrances, this is a rather subdued one, I think. Serious projection, though – I sprayed it on my wrist and could literally taste it. It turns into a waxy benzoin. Longevity is 10hrs+.
Fleur du Mal
“I wanted to create a perfume of contrast using osmanthus which has a duality and unexpected quality. It appears innocent but it can be very sensual, almost animalic; this flower, that seems to be an angel, can turn devilish.”
Quentin Bisch
Top Note: Peach Juice
Heart Note: Osmanthus, Jasmine
Base Note: Suede, Amber
Ugh, peach juice and a really artificial animalic leather accord. This I emphatically don’t like – I understand the reasoning behind it: I guess the peach needs something to balance it so it’s not too sweet, but the leather they chose is just wrong. Remember the Bottega Veneta I always go on about? That is peach schnaps and old leather, and dead sexy. Get that instead.
Soie Malaquais
“I fell in love with Dries’ silk dresses in his Quai Malaquais boutique. The texture was so fluid it merged with the skin, which gave me the idea for a silky, enveloping perfume, a mix of chestnut with sensual vanilla.”
Marie Salamagne
Top Note: Bergamot, Blackcurrant
Heart Note: Rose, Silk
Base Note: Chestnut, Cocoa
I wish all the notes would interact with each other more slowly. Upon spraying, you get a lovely fresh burst of bergamot, and a sparkly blackcurrant juice, then some freshly cut rose, and then it’s all sweet cocoa and sweetened chestnut puree. It reminds me of Jo Malone Blue Agava & Cacao. (With a much better longevity – this one clocks in around 8+ hrs.)
Dries van Noten fragrances review: worth it and favourites?
I like that the perfumers responsible for this huge line-up didn’t go into a very trendy direction (basically, I’m just thankful that there’s no Baccarat or Delina or Santal 33 dupe). They all delivered: personally, I think every scent is well done and thoughtfully composed. The quality is undoubtedly there, including longevity. You will, if you find your perfume “type” in the line-up, undoubtedly enjoy that. (For me, that would be Santal Greenery.) I even ended up liking a few that weren’t my type at all: Rock the Myrrh, for example.
But: they don’t bring ANYTHING new to the table at all, and for a fashion house that stresses juxtaposition and contradictions so much in both fashion line AND marketing blurbs for the fragrance line, this – didn’t do that. At all. All fragrances are polite, foreseeable, and maybe even a tiny little bland. It’s fragrance for someone who doesn’t take risks. Sure, there’s a time and place for that. As someone with a decent fragrance collection, I feel that I own those I like already. And that’s just a tiny bit sad. (I would’ve loved to own one of the stunning full-size bottles.)
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