Especially if you’re suffering from how your skin looks, it’s tempting to reach for higher and higher concentrations of active ingredients. There’re only a few problems with that: first, the percentage of an active ingredient can’t tell you how well a product will perform for you, and second, higher doses of actives come, obviously, with the risk of irritation. Below, I’ll show you what to look out for and how much retinol and AHA/BHA your skin needs.
Use only the amount of retinol and AHA/BHA your skin needs
When I got ‘into skincare’, I firmly belonged to the ‘more is more’ school of thought. It took me quite some time to realise that my skin doesn’t benefit actually from AHAs or BHAs. If I use them continuously, I notice a difference in my skin, but then, the more I use them, the more irritated my skin becomes. And if I just use them once a week, I don’t even have to bother – I don’t see a difference. (More about that thought process and my trial and error approach here.) But: our skin changes, we get older, learn more, discover different products.
Right now I’m solely relying on retinol, vitamin c and niacinamide when I’m using actives, but who knows? Maybe that’ll change again at one point. I also don’t have that many product recommendations for retinol products as I’ve ever only used a philosophy product – looooooong discontinued – and Paula’s Choice for my retinol needs.
Vitamin A/Retinol
Retinol is both scary stuff with a plethora of side effects, and a deeply researched, effective skincare ingredient, working great for both acne-sufferers and people wanting to reap its anti-aging benefits. I usually don’t write about it, because I find the tendency of people diving into potent formulations after reading a blog post worrying. This is an ingredient where caution, research and a slow approach matters.
How much retinol does your skin need?
The recommended amount varies a lot, whether the Vitamin A used is an alcohol, ester or acid. They all work similarly: they promote the speed of cell turnover. The range goes from prescription-only retionoic acid (e.g. tretinoin), retinol to retinoyl palmitate, the most gentle. A lot depends on the formulation with retinol products, no matter the form: here, it certainly matters if the product also includes skin-soothing ingredients. It pays off to start with a retinoyl palmitate product, and after using that without any side effects popping up, changing to a 0,1 or 0,3% retinol product. If you’re doing it for anti-aging effects, studies suggest that continuity might be key, and that low doses are efficient.
Conclusion: if you want to prevent wrinkles, you don’t NEED the highest amount imaginable. (Also, a low amount comes with less irritation potential.) I use Paula’s Choice’s Ceramide-Enriched Moisturiser (0,1% retinol) or her 1% Retinol Treatment that I mix into serums or toners (reviews). For acne (and remember, having a few outbreaks doesn’t constitute acne), talk to your dermatologist about a prescription-level retinoid.
Remember, sunscreen is non-negotionable when using retinol, AHAs or BHAs. Those three ingredients make skin very photosensitive.
AHA (Glycolic Acid)
What for?
AHA work better for drier skintypes and surface-level skin concerns, like acne-marks and hyperpigmentation. They work by loosening the ‘glue’ that hold skin cells together, thus promoting exfoliation.
How much does your skin need?
Here, a lot depends on the pH of the product, because acids need a low(er) pH to be effective. A pH between 3 and 4 makes the exfoliation treatment most effective, but as always, effectiveness isn’t king (or queen). A low concentration of 3 to 5% with exactly that pH can be effective and gentle enough, while a higher concentration with a high pH weakens the acid – which can be a good or bad thing, depending. More than 8 to 10% in a formula that won’t wash off will very likely be an overkill.
BHA (Salicylic Acid)
What for?
Because BHAs are lipophilic, they’re able to dissolve the mix of sebum and dead skin cells that lead to acne. They’re also anti-inflammatory and antibacterial.
How much does your skin need?
Usually BHAs are less irritating than AHAs due to their larger molecule size. Both acids exfoliate (duh), but BHAs are oil-soluble and can decrease oil-production. BHAs are already effective in a concentration of 2%, while there’re products that start with 0.5%. pH regulation also applies here. (More about the influence of pH on acids at Labmuffin.)
What to do when you’re overdoing it
Active skincare ingredients always come with the potential of irritation. But for an increasing level of skincare lovers having a skincare routine seems to mean a never-ending circle of treating a skin issue and THEN treating the issues that treatment might’ve caused. As I’m guilty of that as well, I can relate. Still, I’m starting to increasingly think about strengthening my skin barrier instead of bombarding my skin with actives. I feel like ceramides, peptides, antioxidants and omega fatty acids pack a ‘secret’ punch, without the side effects ‘proper’ actives might have.
How to spend a lot of money and wreck your skin (or, how not to choose a skincare routine).
Irritation from actives can lead to a compromised skin barrier, especially when you’re overdoing it with acids. Skin is usually dry, sensitive, dull, red and uneven, easily irritated and break-out prone. Stop what you’re doing and revert back to a pampering routine that include ceramides, omega fatty acids and hyaluronic acid. Retinol side effects are excessive dryness and flaking skin: scale back your use, or try to mix your retinol product into your moisturiser or even apply it over your moisturiser. In both cases, a skincare ‘diet’ might be a good approach.
Please note that this review is not sponsored in any way. We buy products ourselves, with our own money, and don’t accept exchanging goods, or money, for reviews. We are completely independent, and our reviews reflect that.
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