Book Review: Beauty and Cosmetics 1550 – 1950 by Sarah Jane Downing

While I was waiting for Lisa Eldridge’s long anticipated book ‘Face Paint’ to be delivered, I was looking for other books on the history of makeup. I found ‘Beauty and Cosmetics 1550 – 1950′ and spent a very happy evening reading it. It’s full of interesting trivia and gives a great overview of the history of makeup.

 

Very different from Eldridge’s hefty coffee table book, this slim edition has only 64 pages (Shire Library, 2012) . I bought it for 3,46€ as a kindle e-book on amazon. It’s a very concise and very anecdotal book – Downing gives you an overview over aesthetics of each era in history since the Middle Ages and then proceeds to tell about makeup and cosmetics fashion during that time. Quickly, an image appears – that of women trying to look beautiful, yet condemned for that through a long time. Despite that quite grim view (underlined by the notion of very toxic ingredients in cosmetics, which means that if you’d use them, you’d likely end up dead quickly) Downing peppers her text with a lot of amusing titbits – there was a time when false eyebrows, made from mouse hide, were a thing! Take that, instagram brows!

My only critique would be that the book is very concentrated on English society, with some sprinkles of Italian and French modes. I liked the many illustrations, although the quality of those is a bit diminished in the black & white display of the e-book, that’s when I’d preferred the hard cover.

 

So, let’s have a peek inside!

 

We start with the Middle Ages, when the double standard of beauty was established, thanks to Christian world views: While pious and plain demeanour in a woman is lauded, the blonde and blue-eyed beauty becomes the archetype of female beauty. Don’t pursue beauty and don’t use of cosmetics if you want to be seen as an honourable woman: That was associated with the sin of pride and vanity. The devil will get you for sure.

What’s fashionable: A high hairline, so ladies plucked the hair along their brow.

 

With the beginning of the Renaissance, beauty becomes a virtue in its own. In Italy starts a more wide-spread use of cosmetics. Elizabeth I. of England becomes a fashion and beauty icon.

What’s fashionable: A white complexion is a must-have. For that, there’s Ceruse: a highly toxic mix from white lead powder, mixed with vinegar. Rouge is made from red ochre, or white lead base mixed with other dyes. Lips are reddened with plaster of Paris with a colouring agent. Everything then is fixed with egg white. The problem with Ceruse is not only its toxicity, but also that it scars the skin. So the more you used it, the more you HAD to use it. A vicious circle.

 

During the Jacobean era the court beauty in a woman is her defining characteristic and more important than anything else. A table top mirror is the thing to have and articles of grooming (mirrors to hang on your belt, hair accessories) become status symbols.

Even men start wearing makeup. Makeup and cosmetics are so sought after that the ultra Christian Puritans even order a ban for cosmetics in parliament!

What’s fashionable: A lush and sensual look. Makeup becomes part of a lady’s routine and beauty spots become all the rage. White skin is still a must – the greatest beauties of the 18^th century, the famous Gunning sisters, all suffered from lead poisoning. One of them actually died from it at age 27.

 

With the French Revolution the stylised and heavy makeup of the 18^th century begins to change for a more natural look. Ceruse is replaced by pearl powder. Rouge becomes essential. Hair powder goes out of fashion because of the heavy taxes during the Napoleonic War.

What’s fashionable: a healthy complexion like you’ve just come in from a walk. Exercise and fresh air is prescribed for that. The 19^th century work ethic comes into play here: You’ve to work hard for beauty, and you’ve to be beautiful just so! Without any help from cosmetics, of course. #wokeuplikethis

So, cosmetics were condemned again, but nevertheless, with the facilities of mass production that begin to emerge during the Industrial Revolution, mass production of makeup begins. Mail order cosmetics is a huge thing. We see a lot of things coming up that we today can relate to because it’s so normal for us – the end of the 19^th century sees the first celebrity endorsed makeup products and the department store Selfridges in London opens its doors and it has a makeup counter.

 

At the beginning of the 20^th century makeup and cosmetics are something that has a nearly emancipatory impact. A lipstick in a bullet that you can apply on the go becomes a statement of freedom with additional shock value for the older generation.

We also start to see the influence of cinema – not only in the looks of movie stars that are covered by glossy magazines, but also in the development of makeup that was first made for use on stage. Maybelline, Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubinstein & Max Factor are the trademark names of the era – isn’t it astonishing that they all are still in business today?

 

1927 was the year a beauty ideal that had endured through all the ages toppled – the first Vogue cover with a tanned woman was published, and pale skin was no longer the ideal (Mademoiselle Chanel endorsed). Industrial inventions were adapted for the cosmetics industry: Lacquer for automobile industry became nail polish. And beauty items get cheaper and easily available: budget cosmetics are offered in drugstores.

 

After WWII eye makeup is regularly worn during the day, not only as an evening look to go out. That was also the time when a lot of products came out that we know today: lip pencils, mascara in a tube with a spiral brush and pearlised lipsticks.

Wearing makeup becomes the norm, not wearing makeup shows laziness. Because, after all, you’ve always to be pretty for a man. (I get some serious Mad Men vibes from that!)

 

I’m quite happy that we finally reached a stage in the history of makeup where anything goes. I can wear it, or if I’m not in the mood, then I just I don’t. I can wear mascara and some powder during the day or go for an elaborate smokey eye and wear that to go to the supermarket. Men can use guyliner. So, everything was better in the good ol’ days? Not really. Nevertheless, I love reading about where we came from regarding to beauty! What about you?