You think you’ve a pretty good grasp on the history of makeup? Think again. My All Made Up review (and yes, that’s the only book about makeup that’s a must-read).
When I heard about Rae Nudson’s book “All Made Up – The Power and Pitfalls of Beauty Culture from Cleopatra to Kim Kardashian” I absolutely didn’t want to read it. From its blurb, I imagined a feminist writer telling makeup-loving me that it’s totally wrong to wear makeup, degrading and catering to the male gaze.
“There is a history and a cultural significance that comes with wearing cat-eye-inspired liner or a bold red lip, one that many women feel to this day, even if we don’t realize exactly why. Increasingly, people of all genders are wrestling with what it means to be a woman living in a patriarchy, and part of that is how looking like a woman—whatever that means—affects people’s real lives.”
Amazon
The contradiction of makeup
When I gave it a chance, though, I couldn’t put it down. The lynchpin of the book, around which every chapter revolves, is the contradiction of makeup. It’s a tool of self-expression and at the same time, a tool that society uses to press people into molds. There’re norms of how people are supposed to look. Nudson cites a few studies that women who wear makeup in an office surrounding generally earn more, and waitresses get more tips if they do. On the other hand, apply too much, or use the wrong colours, people will label you as vulgar or a slut.
And that doesn’t end with what women do with their faces: this applies to all genders. I loved that Nudson doesn’t only look at Western (US/UK) societies when tracing the socioeconomic influences of makeup.
A history of makeup – but different
I’ve always been interested in the history of makeup. And it always struck me as rather random that the paint we use on our faces to send out messages about us and about the world was suddenly, around the 18th and 19th century, used to signify femininity. Through the ages, it wasn’t. The last time when makeup was a huge thing for all genders was the Georgian one. And then, it was bound up with a certain class of people: the ruling, upper class. But while I knew about that, I never thought to ask about the why. While it’s great to learn from Lisa Eldridge about how styles, tools and products changed, as a makeup lover, you need to listen to Nudson.
After finishing All Made Up, I suddenly felt as someone suddenly yanked a blanket from my eyes. I explained that initial discrepancy: how can I love the creativity and self-expression of makeup, when its what society tells me to conform to?
As Nudson says: To talk about makeup is to talk about power: who has it, who wants it and who is trying to keep it.
The political and economical implications of makeup
But what is it about?! You might ask. Well, individual chapters will explain the role of makeup in the expansion of women’s work after and between the two world wars, makeup as a signifier of sexuality after the movie industry took off, gender questions (who wears makeup? Is allowed to wear makeup and why?), the question of race (and power) when catering to consumers (“too few shades”), powerful women through the ages and the role of makeup to cement that power (taking not only a good look at Queen Elizabeth I but also Princess Anle of the Chinese Tang Dynasty), and the role of makeup as the economic and political gatekeeper.
One of my favourite examples from the book is the juxtaposition of beauty routines of women in North and South Korea. In South Korea, women want to break out from the perceived “corset” of 10-step skincare routines and rigid beauty norms. At the same time, in North Korea, women use skincare and makeup as a tool for political protest.
Before judging beauty standards throughout the world, across all genders and through time: it pays off to look into the why first.
Availability & Price
I never advise people that they need to buy something in my role as a writer and blogger. But in this case, it’s different. You need to read this book. Get it from the library, or buy it somewhere. I got my e-book from Amazon, and kind of regret that I didn’t spring for the hardcover.
All Made up By Rae Nudson, 214 p., Amazon Kindle edition, for 15,84€.
Please note that this post is not sponsored in any way. We buy products ourselves, with our own money, and don’t accept exchanging goods or money for reviews. We are completely independent, and our reviews reflect that.
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