Scientists seem to agree that pollution is bad for our skin. Because pollution makes free radicals attack our skin, and that can lead to all the things we connect with aging: dry skin, uneven skintone, fine lines. Paula’s Choice came out with its red Defense line about two years ago, and I’ve tried three of its five products and am NOT convinced. Why? Read on.
I’ve written about anti-pollution skincare before, when I was still living in Shanghai and both air and water quality was rather awful. Now, back in Germany all is not well: living right in the middle of the city I’ve realised that especially in winter, anti-pollution skincare might be a good idea as pollution levels rise steadily. There’re certain things to combat that: a good cleanse, antioxidants and sunscreen application among them (more here).
Paula’s Choice Defense line
There’re two products I didn’t test: the cleanser, and the Triple Shield Algae Serum that’s supposed to ‘shield’ skin from environmental stressors. It’s getting more and more difficult to test PC’s products because the company doesn’t sell sample satchets any more and mini sizes aren’t available for all products which I find majorly annoying. But here’s what the Defense products are supposed to do:
‘This antioxidant-rich system interrupts visible damage from airborne pollutants, protects from UV and blue light exposure, hydrates, and strengthens skin’s surface so it looks and feels healthier now and years from now.’
Paula’s Choice
It’s formulated for all skin types, and the German PC site stresses that although all products are formulated with a special APF (Anti-Pollution Factor) that are mainly antioxidants. Which antioxidants? ALL of them. Say what?! We don’t need a special skincare line, but can just use any antioxidant product we like?!?!?! (Spoiler: yes.)
Defense Nightly Reconditioning Moisturizer
Eight superfoods plus antioxidants strengthen your skin’s environmental defenses while hydrating, softening and clarifying overnight.
Paula’s Choice
I’m irrationally angry at this marketing of ‘superfoods that nourish skin’: just because something is good for you to eat it doesn’t mean it’s great for your skin. Some of those ‘superfoods’ work as emollients, some as antioxidants. The formula also includes an azelaic acid derivative, peptides and ceramides. That makes it great for skin that’s prone to breakouts and discolorations with acne-fighting and soothing ingredients.
It’s a rather gel-like moisturiser that’s lightweight and best suited for combination to oily skin. The formula makes it more suitable for hot summer days. It smells a bit like linseed (all linseed products always smell like wood polish for me) and leaves a velvety skin feeling. I wake up with good hydration levels when I use it as my PM moisturiser, so it actually DOES moisturise. Of all Defense products, I like it the most.
Defense Essential Glow Moisturiser SPF30
“This illuminating moisturizer shields skin with all-mineral sun protection plus antioxidants to help protect against the effects of environmental damage.”
Paula’s Choice
An all-mineral sunscreen without any white cast (due to nano technology) with a finish that ranges from glowy to greasy given your preferences. While that sounds great, it isn’t: for it to properly work (and still look good) you’ve to baby it like there’s no tomorrow.
If you don’t hit the sweet spot of how much and over which base, it looks horribly streaky. It always leaves a rather tacky finish and is (for my taste) totally unsuitable as a foundation base. Definitely NOT suited for oily skin. Dry skintypes will have to try what they’re able to layer under it before it pills and balls up.
Defense Antioxidant Pore Purifier
“Clear pores of daily debris and pollution plus brighten skin with a blend of antioxidants, salicylic acid and other skin-fortifying ingredients.”
Paula’s Choice
This light serum sounds great on paper: full of antioxidants, some soothing and some brightening ingredients, and, of course, 0.5% salicylic acid. Very likely that amount can only work as a penetration enhancer, though. (More at Labmuffin why ingredient lists don’t say much.)
And while Paula’s Choice is famous for packing everything and the kitchen sink into her formulas, there’s a downside to that approach. It’s much easier to react to a product with an ingredient list as long as my arm. Here, my skin reacts with an uneven tone and mini outbreaks to something in the Pore Purifier. For dry skin, I’d assume, it’s not hydrating enough. That’s not an issue for me though, here.
Paula’s Choice Defense line: Do you need it?
Good skincare has two parameters. First, is it suitable for my skintype? Second, is it suitable for the weather we’re having now? While I like the idea of using one line of skincare products, the point is that Paula’s Choice’s Defense line is kind of wishy-washy. It’s not for oily, but not for dry skin either. My combination skin liked only one product.
It’s made for a broad range of potential users but falls short on that ambition, consequently being suitable only for a small group of people with not-too-dry-not-too-oily skin, not too old and not too young. I’d guess it’s for a twenty-something with no specific skin concerns. Well, that’s not me, obviously.
If it’s you, and if you at the same time want to reap some anti-pollution benefits from your skincare, then you’re in luck. If not, the best way to combat pollution is to cleanse your skin properly, use sunscreen and a lot of antioxidants. Done.
Please note that this post is not sponsored in any way. We buy products ourselves, with our own money, and don’t accept exchanging goods or money for reviews. We are completely independent, and our reviews reflect that.
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