So, what is ectoin anyway and did this serum repair my long-suffering skin barrier?! This and more in my The Inkey List Ectoin Serum review.
The Brand
“Two people from Boots launched a ‘premium skincare line without premium prices’ (Get the Gloss), with a simple approach concentrating on one hero ingredient per product in 2018. The name plays on that: we’ve all perused the eponymous ‘inci list’ at the back of products. The Inkey List (TIL) plasters the hero ingredient on the label, thus styling themselves as ‘the beauty translator’, ‘breaking through the jargon’. Products are relatively cheap and the black-and-white plastic bottles instagrammable. The brand is already easily available nearly everywhere in the world.”
My review of TIL’s Hyaluronic Acid and Q10 Serums
I’ve to admit that of all budget skincare brands, TIL is maybe my least favourite. With the exception of very few (I like their hair products) every product has disappointed me in some way.
The Inkey List Ectoin Serum review: What it is
A hydrating serum that promises barrier repair – kind of.
Official Description
A breakthrough in barrier skincare, The INKEY List Ectoin Hydro-Barrier Serum is a dual-action serum that boosts hydration up to 10 surface layers deep whilst building a stronger skin barrier. Clinically proven to restore skin bounce in 3 days* and deeply hydrate and strengthen the skin’s barrier in 15 minutes.
Ingredients
Aqua (Water / Eau), Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coconut Alkanes, Ectoin, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Maltodextrin, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Panthenol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Stearate, Jojoba Esters, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Citrate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Citric Acid, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Glycerin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Triethyl Citrate, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Ceramide NP, Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Behenic Acid, Sodium Levulinate, Polyglycerin-3, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Ceramide EOP
Notable ingredients
Honestly, the list is neither very interesting nor surprising. Sure, four forms of hyaluronic acid for hydration, sure, three ceramides, yup, panthenol and oat kernel extract for soothing. So far, so boring.
Ectoin comes in with 2%, which is new for me: apparently, suppliers say the sweet spot lays between 0,5% and 2%. I’ve only seen and used it in lower concentrations, and know now that the weird waxy taste I get in my mouth comes from ectoin used in concentrations over 1%. Is that only me?!
Ectoin, though, is a deeply cool amino acid derivative that protects bacteria in life-threatening environments (they were first observed in the Arctic). In cosmetic products, it can prevent trans-epidermal water loss and protect from environmental stressors.
Sustainability
‘We are a carbon net neutral business. All our emissions are offset annually through planet friendly projects with a focus on education.’ They’re also B-Corp certified, which doesn’t mean much, because B-Corp operates on a self-assessment basis. While they’re claiming that every part of their packaging is recyclable, the problem with all those black bottles is – they aren’t, at least easily. In Germany’s recycling system, for example, they’ll be burnt because they’re too difficult to recycle.
Texture & Application
I use this as my serum step after toner, and before moisturizer/sunscreen and use two pumps of product.
TIL claims the Ectoin Serum has a ‘milky, lightweight texture’ and I wouldn’t call it that. It reminds me of a gel-cream moisturizer. For a serum, it’s astonishingly creamy but still not oily-rich, absorbing quickly and leaving a soft, velvet finish. It doesn’t feel oily or sticky.
Finish
Thankfully, this serum doesn’t make neither sunscreen nor moisturizer ball up and pill. For a serum, it has the best kind of texture: the one that disappears directly and is easily layerable.
I can imagine using it as a stand-alone product under SPF when it’s warmer.
I can also imagine it being too rich in the heights of summer, and while TIL markets it for all skintypes, I doubt that oily skins will be super happy with it, especially in warmer and more humid weather. For me, this one is targeted towards dry, dehydrated and sensitive skintypes.
Effect
I don’t suffer from dry/dehydrated skin. Whenever I fuck up my skin barrier, that’s because I overdid it with some active or other. And while this serum might be the bees knees when you have a compromised skin barrier due to dryness, for me it fell a tiny bit flat. While it’s absolutely true that a compromised skin barrier can benefit from increased hydration, it’s not the end-all of a wrecked barrier.
Think of it this way: whenever you have a red nose because you’ve got a cold and blow your nose 50 times an hour, you can use all the hyaluronic acid – and, yes, ectoin – you want on it and it’ll sting and do next to nothing: because in that case, you need some heavy-duty balm or ointment to help your skin heal. Hydration is not on top of the list of your needs then. And so, while the Ectoin Serum might help your skin barrier if you have dry or dehydrated skin, it doesn’t help mine. For me, it’s a nice, hydrating serum with some soothing abilities and a great texture.
Comparison
I have used other products with ectoin and liked them: mainly Theramid’s Ceramide Treatment and Transparent Lab’s Ceramide Repair Moisturizer. The latter uses 0,5% ectoin, while the former uses 1%. (This one uses 2%.) Do I like The Inkey List’s serum better than those other two? No, not at all. It’s maybe on par with Theramid’s Ceramide Treatment and I do use them interchangeably. The Ceramide Repair Moisturizer, though, due to its richer texture, is actually able to heal a compromised skin barrier, while the two serums here can only play supporting roles in that. It also reminds me an awful lot of The Ordinary’s pink Soothing & Barrier Support Serum, which does similar things and also flirts with barrier repair without properly delivering said repair.
The Inkey List Ectoin Serum review: Rating
Here’s my issue with TIL in general: they rely on, well, disingenious marketing an awful lot. (I remember fondly Michelle’s succinic acid video about them.) Here, they put another spin on that tactic: they imply that their product might do something, but that’s only true for a specific skintype. I absolutely think the serum might work in supporting your skin barrier IF your barrier is compromised because your skin is overly dry. If your skin barrier is compromised due to other reasons, this is a nice serum to use AFTER you healed your barrier.
This is a great contender for the ‘it’s fine’-category. It’s fine for the price, I like it, but won’t repurchase.
Availability & Price
€16,00 / 30ml at their own webshop.
Hey, you can now treat me to a (virtual) coffee that helps to keep the blog going!
Please note that this post is not sponsored in any way! Twindly is an independent blog, and our reviews reflect that. Sometimes we’ll use affiliate links that will be clearly marked. Affiliate links mean that if you choose to buy a product through this link, I’ll earn a small commission at no extra cost for you. If you decide to do that, thank you for helping to keep the blog afloat! (No matter if the link is affiliate or not, the reviews will always truthfully reflect how any product performed when I tested it.)
